Pappardelle with Butternut Squash, Blue Cheese and Pine Nuts

The secret foodie project I’ve been working on for the past two months with fellow blogger Caroline from Bibliocook is out! When I’ve been writing these past few weeks that I’ve been slaving away with work and was practically too busy to cook, that was only part of the story — Caroline and I were also madly working behind the scenes to launch the new Irish Food Bloggers Association at the Food Camp that kicked off the Savour Kilkenny Food Festival last week (if you’d like to read more about Ireland’s first-ever Food Camp, visit some of these blogs for their recaps; they were obviously taking better notes than me!). If you’re an Irish or Irish-based blogger writing about anything to do with food, please join us! Or just check out the site to explore what we hope will become the definitive list of all the food blogs in Ireland.

This will be my last post from Nigella’s new book for awhile, I promise. The one downside to launching the IFBA on October 22 was that I only found out late that night after getting back from Kilkenny that Nigella Lawson was doing a book signing in Dublin at noon the next day, and I was just too tired and too busy to go and have her sign my already well-thumbed copy of Kitchen. Looks like I’ll have to wait until she writes her next book and try to catch her on that tour.

Pappardelle with Butternut Squash, Blue Cheese and Pine Nuts
adapted from Kitchen by Nigella Lawson

Serves 4

This is a first cousin to this risotto with roasted butternut squash, bacon and blue cheese (I wouldn’t be averse to adding some bacon to this pasta dish). Nigella notes that the sauce can be made 1 day ahead — simmer until the squash is tender, then transfer to a nonmetallic bowl to cool. Cover and refrigerate, then reheat gently in a saucepan and proceed as directed. The sauce can also be frozen in an airtight container for up to 3 months — just defrost overnight in the fridge and reheat gently.

1 large onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 large butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and cut into 1‑inch cubes
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
3 tablespoons Marsala
1/2 cup (120 ml) water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped (or 1/2 teaspoon dried sage)
18 oz (500 g) pappardelle or other robust pasta
1 cup (100 g) pine nuts
5 oz (125 g) soft blue cheese, crumbled

Fry the onion in the olive oil over a medium heat in a large, heavy-based pan that can accommodate all the pasta later. After about 10 minutes, add the paprika. Add the cubed butternut squash, then add the butter, stirring everything together well in the pan. Add the Marsala and water. Once the mixture starts to simmer, put the lid on, turn down the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, or until the squash is tender but still holds its shape. Season to taste (keeping in mind that the cheese will be salty too), then sprinkle the sage into the squash mixture, reserving some to garnish.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water according to the packet instructions. Toast the pine nuts in a separate hot, dry pan, tip them into a bowl and set aside.

Before you drain the pasta, reserve a mugful of the cooking water. Add the drained pasta to the squash and slowly stir to combine. Add some of the pasta cooking water to help the sauce emulsify, then add the blue cheese and half the pine nuts. Gently combine, then sprinkle the remaining pine nuts and sage on top and serve.

Mustard Crusted Tofu with Sweet Potatoes and Kale

Earlier this month our family went vegetarian for a week. My husband and I have been wanting to try on vegetarianism for awhile and when our friends mentioned their interest, we made a pact to go meat-free together. To sweeten the deal, we agreed to have each other over for dinner during the week. As you can probably figure out by my posts, we tend to eat (and enjoy) meat a few times per week. But honestly, except for a momentary craving for a turkey sandwich, I didn’t miss meat at all. Eliminating meat from our menu gave me the chance to make some of my favorite vegetarian dishes, vegetarian chili on quinoa and fettuccine alfredo, for example, and was good motivation to find some new meatless menus. I tried out this tofu recipe because it sounded different and, more importantly, quick. I never thought to combine mustard and tofu but it somehow works. The sweet potatoes and kale provide an earthy, sweet note to balance the tangy tofu.

Mustard Crusted Tofu with Sweet Potatoes and Kale
adapted from Bon Appetit, September 2007

Serves 3

1 x 14-oz (400‑g) package firm tofu
1/4 cup (60 ml) whole grain Dijon mustard
4 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
1/2 medium onion, sliced
1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger
1 bunch kale, stem cut from each leaf, leaves thinly sliced crosswise
1 red-skinned sweet potato (yam), peeled, halved lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
soy sauce or tamari, to taste
cooked rice, to serve

Cut the tofu in half lengthwise and place the pieces, side by side, on a clean dishtowel or several pieces of folded paper towels. Fold dish towel (or paper towels) over the tofu. Place the covered tofu in a dish, cover, and let it sit overnight in the fridge. The towels should draw out a considerable amount of moisture from the tofu. If you forget to do this the night before your meal, simply place a large pan or other heavy plate on top of the tofu and let it sit for at least half an hour to press out excess moisture.

Cut the pressed tofu into eight pieces, cubed as in the picture, or in 1/2‑inch-thick slices. Spread the top and bottom sides of each piece with the mustard.

Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and ginger; sauté 3 minutes. Add the sweet potato and saute another 5 minutes. Add the kale and lime juice then cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook until the potato is tender and the kale is wilted, about 12 more minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in another large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the tofu; cover and cook until heated through and crisp, about 2 minutes per side (some mustard seeds may fall off of the tofu).

Arrange the kale and sweet potato mixture on a plate. Place the tofu pieces atop the vegetables. Serve with soy sauce or tamari and rice, if desired.

Spanish Chicken with Chorizo and Potatoes and Braised Kale

Now that the two big projects that kept me chained to my desk these past few weeks have finally gone off to the printer, I’d love nothing more than to light the turf fire (now that it’s cold enough for one) after the kids go to bed and catch up on all the cooking shows I’ve recorded. But there’s no rest for the weary, and I’m just as busy this week as Caroline from Bibliocook and I put the finishing touches to a new foodie project, to be launched at the Savour Kilkenny Food Camp on Friday. The focus is still on fast, fuss-free meals and I’m still leaning heavily on Nigella Lawson’s new book despite having acquired five other ones in the past six weeks, mainly because it never seems to leave my kitchen counter and make it back to the bookshelf. This tray bake was just what I needed for an easy midweek dinner, but once Friday’s launch is done and dusted and our mystery project goes live, I’m looking forward to some downtime and leisurely baking in the kitchen this weekend after Nigella’s book just so happened to fall open to the maple pecan bundt cake recipe…

If you like this chicken and chorizo hash, you’ll love this. Likewise, if you’re a fan of one-tray dinners that you can assemble in five minutes then pop in the oven and forget about, like oven-roasted sausage and sweet potato, cherry tomato and sausage bake, or balsamic roast chicken with roast tomatoes, then this is another recipe to add to that list.

Spanish Chicken with Chorizo and Potatoes
adapted from Kitchen by Nigella Lawson

Serves 6

Nigella’s original recipe calls for 12 chicken thighs (bone in, skin on) to be cooked at 425°F (220°C) for 1 hour. She also calls for 2 teaspoons of dried oregano and the zest of 1 orange, both of which I left out. And while her original recipe calls for about 1 3/4 lb (750 g) of chorizo, I easily got away with using only 11 oz (300 g). She suggests dicing up any leftovers to make quesadillas.

6 chicken breasts
2 lb (1 kg) baby potatoes, halved
1 1/2 lb (680 g) chorizo, cut into 1 1/2‑inch pieces
2 or 3 red onions, roughly chopped
olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place the chicken, baby potatoes, chorizo and onions in a roasting tin (or divide between 2 baking trays). Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. Baste the contents with the oil released by the chorizo and serve.

***

Braised Kale

Serves 4

1 lb (450 g) kale (about 2 bunches), large center ribs and stems removed
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 red chili, finely chopped, or a pinch of red pepper flakes
1/3 cup (80 ml) dry white wine
zest and juice of 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Rinse the kale well, then cut crosswise into 1/2‑inch slices. Drain in a colander and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-low heat. Saute the garlic the chili or red pepper flakes for 5 minutes, taking care not to let the garlic color. When the garlic has softened, raise the heat and add the kale. Cook for a couple of minutes, until the kale starts to wilt and turn a vibrant green. Add in the wine, lemon zest and juice and salt and pepper to taste. (Try not to cook the kale too long so that it keeps its bright green color.) Serve immediately.

Pasta with Feta, Spinach and Pine Nuts

Nigella Lawson’s new show, Nigella Kitchen, started two weeks ago. The only problem is that it’s on at the same time as River Cottage Everyday with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. Luckily, I don’t have to choose between them since I can record River Cottage while I watch Nigella, but if I did have to choose, I think I’d go with the domestic goddess. I know her formula of snug-fitting cashmere twin sets, seductive finger-licking and her fondness for fairy lights is growing old for some people, but I still love her. I even joke that I want to be her when I grow up. This is another 30-minute meal from her new cookbook, taken from her lifesaver express index when I barely had time to think amidst my work deadlines last week, never mind plan meals, shop for them and cook them, but was still able to whip up something healthy and tasty for dinner thanks to this quick and easy recipe.

Pasta with Feta, Spinach and Pine Nuts
adapted from Kitchen by Nigella Lawson

Serves 6

Nigella says the leftovers can be made into an excellent cold pasta salad for lunch the next day by refrigerating it straightaway, then breaking it up a bit with a fork and adding some lemon juice and olive oil.

1 lb 2 oz (500 g) fusilli
1/3 cup (50 g) pine nuts
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg or allspice
1 lb 2 0z (500 g) frozen leaf spinach
7 oz (200 g) feta cheese, crumbled
3 or 4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
salt and freshly grated black pepper

Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, or according to the packet instructions.

Toast the pine nuts in a hot, dry pan (one that’s big enough to eventually take the sauce and all the pasta) just until they’re golden, taking care not to let them burn. Transfer to a bowl or plate and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in the pan and add the onion. Cook on a low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until soft. If they look like they’re getting too brown, sprinkle with a little salt (to help draw out the juices and slow down the browning). Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add the nutmeg or allspice, then add the frozen spinach. Keep stirring to help the frozen spinach melt consistently.

Just before you drain the pasta, scoop out a mug of the cooking water. Add about 1/4 cup (60 ml) to the spinach in the frying pan, then crumble in the feta and stir. Add in the Parmesan and stir again.

Drain the pasta and toss into the spinach and feta sauce, then season to taste. Add in more of the pasta cooking water if the sauce looks too dry. Transfer to a serving bowl, then add the toasted pine nuts and toss through before serving.

Layered Taco Salad and Rocky Road Bark

I’ve made this layered taco salad a few times, each time planning to post the recipe because it’s so easy to make and pretty to look at once assembled. Unfortunately, it’s so tasty I’m never able to resist immediately sitting down to dish up a plate, ruining the picture-perfect ensemble of beef, beans, cheese, avocados and lettuce, so you’ll have to use your imagination on this one. If it helps, think of  your favorite nachos, then imagine them with better, fresher ingredients on a bed of tangy lime-dressed lettuce.

For those in need of a picture, I give you dessert — rocky road bark. Sam is a huge fan of marshmallows but I try to limit his intake. This inevitably leads to opened bags of marshmallows growing stale in my cupboard. This recipe took care of a handful of them and provided a few days of bite-sized after-dinner treats that the whole family enjoyed.

Layered Taco Salad
adapted from Gourmet, August 2003

Serves 4

for the dressing:
juice of 1 lime
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil

for the beef:
1 medium onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 jalapeno or serrano chiles (including seeds), finely chopped
2 teaspoons chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 lb (450 g) ground chuck
6 oz (175 ml) tomato sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

for the salad:
1 firm-ripe California avocado
1 large head romaine lettuce, thinly sliced
1 tomato, chopped
1/4 lb (110 g) coarsely grated sharp Cheddar
1 x 15 oz (425 g) can black beans, drained and rinsed
1 x 6 oz (170 g) can sliced pitted black olives, drained
tortilla chips, to serve

To make the dressing, whisk together the lime juice, cilantro, sugar, chili powder, cumin, salt, and pepper, then add the oil in a stream, whisking until emulsified.

To cook the beef, cook the onion, garlic, chile, chili powder, and cumin in the oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over a moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is well softened, about 6 minutes. Add the beef and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up lumps, until the meat is no longer pink, about 5 minutes, then spoon off any excess fat from the skillet. Add the tomato sauce, salt, and pepper to the beef and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat.

To assemble the salad, peel and pit the avocado, then cut into 1/2‑inch pieces. Spread the lettuce over the bottom of a shallow 4‑quart dish or other large shallow bowl (for example, a large pasta serving bowl). Drizzle the dressing over the salad and toss lightly. Spoon the beef mixture evenly over the lettuce and continue making layers with tomatoes, cheese, beans, avocado, and olives.

***

Rocky Road Bark
adapted from Cook’s Country

Makes 16 pieces

5 or 6 whole graham crackers
6 tablespoons (90 g) unsalted butter
1/4 cup (40 g) packed light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 oz (110 g) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
3/4 cup (40 g) mini marshmallows
1/2 cup (50 g) chopped pecans, walnuts or sliced almonds

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line an 8‑inch-square baking pan with heavy-duty aluminum foil, making sure the foil is tucked into all corners and at least 1 inch of foil overhangs the top of the pan on the sides. This will create a type of handle, which you’ll use later to pull out the bark. In a single layer, line the bottom of the pan with graham crackers, breaking them if needed so that they fit tightly.

Combine the butter, brown sugar, and salt in a small saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the butter is melted and the sugar is dissolved. Scrape the mixture onto the graham crackers and smooth so that the mixture covers the crackers completely. Bake until the caramel is bubbling, about 8 minutes.

Remove the pan from the oven, sprinkle with the chocolate pieces, and return the pan to the oven to soften the chocolate, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and use a spatula to gently smooth the chocolate into an even layer.

Sprinkle the marshmallows and then the nuts over the chocolate, pressing lightly with your fingertips so the marshmallows and nuts adhere to the chocolate. Cool the pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes, then freeze until the chocolate hardens, 30 minutes.

Grabbing the overhang, lift the foil from the pan onto a cutting board. Using a sharp chef’s knife, cut the bark into 2‑inch squares. Store any leftovers in an airtight container for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.

Balsamic Roast Chicken with Rocket, Roast Tomatoes and Parmesan

As a bit of a self-confessed cookbook addict (six new cookbooks in the last six weeks, ahem!), I know what Domini Kemp is talking about when she said in her column last Saturday, “Who needs another cookbook? I know if the amount I have on my shelves is anything to go by, then I certainly don’t. But yet, I love flicking through cookbooks any chance I get.” Her own beautifully styled new book, Itsa Cookbook, is a compilation of over 100 of the best-loved, most-cooked recipes from her weekly Irish Times column, with photographs that make you wish you could pull up a chair and tuck in. Recipes I’ve already made from Domini’s column over the years that are now included in her book are chickpea, sweet potato and chorizo stew; beans and bacon; coriander chicken with chickpea, feta and coriander salad; and salmon en croute with dill and pistachio pesto. A short list of recipes from the book I’m looking forward to trying include sweet corn fritters with tomato salsa, lemon and garlic poached chicken, baked sweet potatoes with lemon and chilli, and chocolate sorbet.

Domini is not only a food writer with a weekly column in the Saturday Irish Times Magazine, but is also a professionally trained chef and restaurateur (she and her sister, Peaches, own and run the Itsa Food Company). Yet for all that, Domini says in her introduction, “But every day I cook at home, where time, nutrition, satisfaction and taste are all key factors. I love to take a recipe, tear it apart, try to make it simpler and tastier and eliminate anything that isn’t utterly critical.” What this has resulted in is a book filled with foolproof recipes aimed at the everyday cook who still wants to eat well — and which one of us doesn’t fit that description?

You can’t get more foolproof than this recipe for balsamic roast chicken with rocket (that’s arugula to those of you in the States), cherry tomatoes and Parmesan. It literally takes 5 minutes to put together and cooks for 30 minutes in the oven — how’s that for an effortless midweek meal? It’s a fantastic recipe to have up your sleeve.

Balsamic Roast Chicken with Rocket, Roast Tomatoes and Parmesan
adapted from Itsa Cookbook by Domini Kemp

Serves 4

This takes only minutes to pull together, but is tasty and sophisticated enough to serve for guests. The flavors are very similar to Jamie Oliver’s cherry tomato and sausage bake, not to mention the same effortless cooking method, so if you like that, you’ll love this too.

4 chicken breasts or supremes, skin on or off
a few tablespoons olive oil
a few tablespoons balsamic vinegar
a few cloves garlic, peeled
fresh thyme or rosemary if you have it
salt and freshly ground black pepper
9 oz (250 g) cherry tomatoes, sliced in half
4 handfuls rocket (arugula)
a few chunky shavings of Parmesan or Pecorino
crusty  bread, to serve

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Place the chicken in a roasting tray or baking sheet and pour over the olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Add in some garlic, herbs and season well, then add in the cherry tomatoes. Roast for about 30 minutes, or until the chicken is fully cooked through, basting the chicken with the cooking juices once or twice.

Arrange the arugula (rocket) on 4 plates. Top with the chicken and some tomatoes and loads of cooking juices (which is like a warm and simple vinaigrette). Top with some Parmesan shavings and serve with plenty of crusty bread to mop up the juices.