Category Archives: Asian food

Mapo Dofu and Angel Food Cake with Chocolate Whipped Cream Frosting

Iron Chef may be one of television’s finest creations. And lest you think I’m recommending Food Network’s knockoff show Iron Chef America, I’m not. I’m referring to the original Japanese Iron Chef with dubbed in voices, wacky commentary, and often grotesque dishes (which more often than not involve some poor animal’s liver or reproductive parts). I first saw Iron Chef in the 90s on my first trip to New York. I still remember randomly stumbling across the competitive cooking show while staying up late watching cable. Reuben and I were instantly addicted. Unfortunately, being poor college kids at the time, we didn’t get cable or access to Iron Chef until several years later. Now, we are the proud owners of a nearly complete set of dubbed Iron Chef episodes and a limited edition Iron Chef board game (how geeky!). Though Iron Chef is great entertainment, I wouldn’t want to eat everything that’s prepared on the show, such as cod roe ice cream. On the other hand, there are a few dishes that look too good not to try out, one of them being Iron Chef Chinese Chen Kenichi’s Mapo Dofu. Though Chen cooks this tofu dish regularly in competition, I’ve only seen it on the menu of a handful of Chinese restaurants. I made the mistake of ordering it once in Salt Lake City — not the best place for authentic Chinese. After eating that blander-than-bland version, I figured I couldn’t do much worse at home. Reuben did some research and came up with a fantastic recipe. I’m not sure how close it is to the Iron Chef’s dish, but we love it.

If you haven’t had homemade angel food cake, you’re really missing out. The Styrofoam-like store-bought versions can’t hold a candle to a fresh-baked angel food cake. Tonight’s cake was leftover from my father-in-law’s birthday party. I made two cakes for the party, one with chocolate whipped cream frosting and the other with a lemon glaze. Though both were good, the chocolate version looked prettier. Of course I forgot to take a picture, but you’ll have to take my word for it.

Mapo Tofu

Quick and Easy Mapo Dofu
adapted from About.com

Serves 4

1/2 lb (225 g) ground pork
1 tablespoon soy sauce
pinch of cornstarch
1 package firm tofu, drained
4 green onions
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons oil, for stir-frying
1/4 teaspoon sambal or chili paste with garlic
2 tablespoons black bean sauce
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorn or ground coriander
rice, to serve

Marinate the ground pork in the soy sauce and cornstarch for 15 to 20 minutes. While pork is marinating, cut the tofu into 1/2‑inch cubes, cut the green onions on the diagonal into 1‑inch pieces, and peel and mince the garlic.

Heat a wok or large skillet over a high heat and add the oil. When the oil is hot, add the chili paste and garlic. Stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Add the ground pork and stir-fry until the pork is nearly cooked through.

Lower the heat to medium and add the black bean sauce, tofu and green onions. Cook, stirring frequently, until the tofu is browned (8 to 10 minutes). Add water as needed. Just before serving, sprinkle with the Szechuan peppercorn or ground coriander. Serve over rice.

***

Angel Food Supreme Cake
adapted from Betty Crocker’s Cookbook/40th Anniversary Edition

Serves 10

3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
1 cup (115 g) cake flour
1 1/2 cups egg whites (about 11 eggs’ worth)
1 1/2 teaspoons cream of tartar
3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar
1 teaspoons vanilla
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/4 teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Whisk together 3/4 cup sugar and flour; set aside.

Beat the egg whites and cream of tartar in large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed until foamy. Beat in the granulated sugar 2 tablespoons at a time on high speed, until the meringue holds stiff peaks. Fold in the vanilla, almond extract and salt. Sprinkle the sugar-flour mixture, 1/4 cup at a time, over the egg white mixture, folding in until the sugar-flour mixture disappears. Push the batter into a 10-inch ungreased angel food cake pan (tube pan). Cut gently through the batter with a butter knife to remove any air bubbles.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the top is golden and springs back when touched lightly. Invert the pan onto a heatproof funnel or wine bottle. Let it hang until the cake is completely cool. Loosen the side of the cake with a knife and remove from the pan. Cut with a serrated knife to serve.

***

Chocolate Whipped Cream Frosting
from Bon Appétit, October 1991

1 cup (120 g) powdered sugar
1/2 cup (60 g) unsweetened cocoa powder
1/4 cup (60 ml) milk
pinch of cream of tartar
2 cups (480 ml) chilled whipping cream

Whisk the powdered sugar, cocoa powder, milk and cream of tartar in a large bowl until smooth. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, about 1 hour. (Can be prepared 4 hours ahead.)

Using an electric mixer, gradually beat the cream into the chocolate mixture. Continue beating until stiff peaks form. Place the cake on a platter. Spread the top and sides of cake with icing. Slice into wedges and serve.

Shrimp Won Tons in Soup and Roasted Asparagus

I’ve probably mentioned that my son loves Asian food before, but I don’t think I mentioned how glad I am of this fact. Asian food, whether Japanese soba, Chinese stir-fry or Thai satay, is quick to prepare and relatively light. Sure beats serving mac and cheese and chicken nuggets. I also love salty sweet tastes, which are easy to find in Asian cuisines.

Though won tons aren’t exactly quick to throw together, using store-bought won ton skins and broth helps reduce the prep time. This was my first time making won tons; my husband usually takes care of it. I’ve included more pictures than usual not because they’re good pictures (they’re actually not good at all), but because I found the picture in the cookbook very helpful. I don’t want to break any copyright laws, so you’re all stuck with my amateur “how to” pictures. Kelly’s birthday wish list: better digital camera with a decent flash.

Shrimp Wontons

Shrimp Won Tons in Soup
adapted from Chinese Snacks Wei-Chuan Cooking Book by Huang Su Huei

Serves 3

for the filling:
10 medium raw, shelled shrimp (about 1/3 lb/170 g)
1/2 teaspoon rice wine
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cornstarch
1/4 cup minced bamboo shoots
1 teaspoon minced ginger
30 won ton skins

for the soup:
6 cups (1.4 liters) broth
1 teaspoon rice wine
1 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon shredded ginger
6 oz (170 g) spinach or other green vegetable

Garnishes: black pepper, sesame oil, soy sauce, chopped green onion, mustard powder or Chinese mustard

Rinse and devein the shrimp. Drain them and cut each into 3 pieces, then mix thoroughly with the remaining filling ingredients.

Step 1Picture 1

Step 2Picture 2

To prepare each won ton, taking one won ton skin, put a teaspoon of filling in the center (picture 1). Fold over in half to form a triangle; make another fold one-quarter from the longest diagonal edge (picture 2).

Step 3Picture 3

Step 4Picture 4

Bring the two outside corners together (the one-quarter fold should be on the inside) and using a drop of water, pinch these 2 edges together to seal (pictures 3 and 4).

Put a large pot of water on to boil (this will be used to cook the won tons). While the water heats, make the soup. Heat the broth, rice wine, salt and ginger in a large saucepan until boiling. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes.

Once the won ton water is boiling, add the won tons and spinach, then cover. When the won tons rise to the surface of the water, remove them and the spinach and drain. Portion into serving bowls. and ladle some soup over them. Serve immediately with garnishes: 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil, 1/2 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon green onion, and a pinch of mustard powder are recommended for each serving.

***

Roasted Asparagus

Serves 2

1 bunch asparagus spears
good-quality olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
sesame oil (optional)
sesame seeds (optional)

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

Snap the tough ends off the asparagus spears. Lay the spears in a single layer on a baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast for 5 to 10 minutes, until tender, depending on the size of spear. Drizzle with sesame oil and garnish with sesame seeds if desired.

Spring Rolls with Pork Meatballs and Spicy Peanut Sauce and Pinkberry-style Vanilla Frozen Yogurt

I love the idea of appetizers for dinner. Why waste time with big entrees when a succulent starter will do? My in-laws introduced me to a wonderful Vietnamese restaurant on the south side of Milwaukee called Phan’s Garden. After years of ordering and assembling their grilled pork meatball spring rolls, Reuben decided to take a stab at preparing the appetizer at home. Over the years, our recipe has been tweaked and nudged until we now no longer go to Phan’s Garden, preferring our home-cooked version of their spring rolls. We occasionally add a stir-fry or salad to the meal, but more often than not, the spring rolls alone make up our meal.

For those that aren’t familiar with Pinkberry, check out their website. I ate their yogurt only once, a couple of years ago while on vacation in New York, but still crave it. Luckily, 101 Cookbooks took a stab at creating a recipe to mimic Pinkberry’s concoction. I decreased the sugar further in an attempt to make the yogurt more tangy and less sweet, as I remember it. Add-ins are key to this type of yogurt. I love it with strawberry puree (great way to use frozen purees leftover from spring strawberry picking). This week, I stirred in toasted pecans and chocolate chips. Reuben makes a rocky road version with nuts, chocolate chips, and marshmallows. And it’s yogurt so you can eat it with a clear conscious.

IMG_6860

Spring Rolls with Pork Meatballs

Serves 4 to 6

1 1/4 lb (570 g) ground pork
1 egg
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon grated ginger
2 tablespoons thinly sliced green onions
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon fish sauce
salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
12 rice spring roll skins
handful of torn lettuce leaves or mixed greens
4 oz (110 g) thin rice noodles, cooked according to package directions
2 carrots, grated
1 cucumber, peeled, halved, seeded, and sliced into thin half moons
1 bunch fresh basil and/or cilantro
1 serrano chili, thinly sliced

Combine the pork, egg, garlic, ginger, green onions, sugar, fish sauce and salt and pepper in a large bowl. Form the meat mixture into 1‑inch meatballs. Brown in the oil over a medium heat, turning occasionally, until cooked through, about 15 minutes.

The meatballs and remaining ingredients should be plated and brought to the table so each individual can make their own roll. To assemble rolls, soak a spring roll skin in a shallow dish of hot water (I use a pie plate) for 20 to 30 seconds until softened. Place a spring roll skin on plate and top (to taste) with lettuce, noodles, 2 or 3 meatballs (I split each meatball in half for easier rolling), shredded carrot, cucumber, fresh herbs, and a bit of chili. Do not overstuff or the rice skin will tear. Spicy peanut sauce can be added before rolling up or it can be served on the side for dipping. The roll is made like a burrito: fold the ends of the spring roll in, then roll up the long sides (see the picture below for an example).

IMG_6864

Spicy Peanut Sauce

Makes about 1 cup (240 ml)

1 tablespoon sesame oil
1/2 cup (125 g) unsweetened peanut butter
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon ginger, grated
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon soy sauce
juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon sambal
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons shelled, roasted peanuts (optional)
1/4 cup (60 ml) hot water

Combine all the ingredients except the water in a food processor. Process until smooth; the mixture will be thick. While the processor is running, add the hot water 1 tablespoon at a time until the sauce reaches the consistency of pudding.

***

Pinkberry-style Vanilla Frozen Yogurt 
adapted from 101 Cookbooks

Makes about 1 quart

32 oz (960 g) plain whole-milk yogurt or 3 cups (720 g) Greek-style yogurt
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

If using whole-milk yogurt, you will need to make strained yogurt by lining a mesh strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth or a thin dish towel. Scrape all the whole-milk yogurt into the cheesecloth. Place a strainer under the bowl to gather the liquid. Gather the ends of the cheesecloth and fold them over the yogurt, then refrigerate for at least 4 hours. After about 4 hours, the yogurt will be thickened and you should have about 3 cups of strained yogurt.

Mix together the strained yogurt (or Greek-style yogurt), sugar, and vanilla. Stir until the sugar is completely dissolved. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This can be eaten directly from the ice cream maker as a soft-serve style frozen yogurt. To solidify the yogurt further, pour into a bowl, cover, and freeze longer.

Drunken Stir-fried Beef with Green Beans, Cucumber Salad, and Chocolate-covered Coconut Macaroons

I subscribed to Cooking Light for years after I graduated college. Looking back, I’m not exactly sure why I continued my subscription. I rarely remade any recipes that I tried with a couple of exceptions, one being this Drunken Stir-fried Beef with Green Beans. I make this dish often, though it’s best in August, when the green beans, tomatoes, and basil are in abundance. Besides being tasty, this dish also reminds me of my son’s first real meal. When he was about 10 months old, after months of trying to get him to eat baby food, I decided to give him a bite of the flank steak in this dish. He devoured it and from then on we stopped trying to convince him to eat baby food and served him whatever we were eating.

Enough about the stir-fried beef. The real highlight of this meal was dessert. I’ve been craving these chocolate-covered coconut macaroons all summer and finally had a chance to make them. “Wow” is all I can say. Truly, truly, a fantastic cookie. And you can freeze them, too, for future decadent nibbles.

Drunken Stir-fried Beef with Green Beans

adapted from Cooking Light

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
5 garlic cloves, minced
1 minced Serrano chili (or 1 teaspoon sambal)
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
zest and juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon canola or peanut oil
1 lb (450 g)  flank steak, trimmed and cut into 1/4‑inch strips
1 lb (450 g) 1‑inch diagonally cut green beans
1 carton halved cherry tomatoes
1 tablespoon sugar
3 tablespoons Thai fish sauce
1 teaspoon cider vinegar
1 cup Thai basil leaves

Combine the salt and minced garlic in a mortar and pestle, and pound to form a paste. Add the chili, ginger, and lime zest, one at a time, until each ingredient is incorporated into the paste.

To prepare the stir-fry, heat the oil in a wok or large nonstick skillet over a medium-high heat. Add the paste, and stir-fry for 30 seconds (fumes may cause eyes and throat to burn slightly). Add the beef and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the beans and stir-fry for 4 to 5 minutes, until the beans are almost tender. Add the tomatoes, sugar, fish sauce, vinegar and lime juice. Stir-fry for 1 minute or until the beef reaches your desired degree of doneness. Stir in the basil. Serve with rice.

***

Simple Cucumber Salad

Serves 4

2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons sesame oil
pinch of sugar
pinch of red pepper flakes
2 cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced (1/8 inch thick)

Mix the first 5 ingredients until the sugar is dissolved. Toss with the cucumber slices. Chill for up to 2 hours, mixing occasionally.

***

Macaroon II

Chocolate-covered Coconut Macaroons
from Orangette

Makes 12 to 15 cookies

3 cups (250 g) lightly packed sweetened shredded coconut
3/4 cup (150 g) granulated sugar
3/4 cup (150 ml) egg whites (about 5 large)
1 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
8 oz (225 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
3/4 cup (150 ml) heavy cream

Place the coconut, sugar and egg whites in a large, heavy saucepan, and stir to combine well. Cook over a medium-low heat, stirring regularly, for about 10 to 12 minutes, until the mixture is pasty but not dry. (The uncooked mixture will look sort of granular at first, then creamy as it heats, and then it will slowly get drier and drier. You want to stop cooking when it no longer looks creamy but is still quite gluey and sticky, not dry.) Remove from the heat. Mix in the vanilla and almond extracts. Spread out the coconut mixture on a large baking sheet. Refrigerate until cold, about 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Line another baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat baking mat. Using a ¼‑cup measuring scoop, scoop and pack the coconut mixture into domes, and place them on the baking sheet. You should wind up with about a dozen. Bake the macaroons until golden, about 30 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool.

Set the cookies on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Place the chopped chocolate in a medium bowl. Heat the heavy cream in a small saucepan until it is very hot and steamy (not boiling), remove from the heat, and pour it over the chocolate. Whisk until the mixture is smooth and the chocolate is thoroughly melted. Spoon the glaze over the macaroons, covering them almost completely and allowing the chocolate to drip down the sides. (You will have leftover glaze, which can be refrigerated or frozen.) Refrigerate the macaroons until the glaze sets, at least 2 hours. Transfer the macaroons to an airtight container, and refrigerate or freeze.

Spicy Peanut Soba with Tofu and Vegetables and Tossed Salad with Sesame Vinaigrette

I am not a vegetarian. I am not a college student. I am not a hippie. I am not Chinese, Japanese, or Korean. I don’t even live in California. Despite this, I am a proud and frequent eater of tofu. If you think you hate tofu, you probably haven’t had it prepared correctly. Tofu itself is bland and, how shall we say, texturally challenged. But if prepared well, tofu can be delicious. And, of course, it’s good for you. Tofu is low in calories, high in protein, and costs less than ground beef at your local supermarket.

The peanut sauce paired with the tofu in this menu is bold, flavorful, and spicy. Try it. I think you’ll like the combination. And if for some reason you can’t bring yourself to eat tofu, feel free to substitute chicken, pork, or shrimp in the recipe.

Spicy Soba II

Spicy Peanut Soba with Tofu and Vegetables

Serves 6

1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce
1/2 cup (120 ml) peanut butter
1/2 cup (15 g) chopped cilantro, plus extra for garnish
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup (60 ml) hot water
1 tablespoon sambal (or 2 tablespoons chili oil or 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper)
2 teaspoons sherry
2 teaspoons sugar
1 package extra-firm tofu, cut into 1‑inch cubes
1 cup (240 ml) peanut or canola oil
1 x 12-oz (300‑g) buckwheat soba noodles
1 red or orange bell pepper, sliced thin
12 oz (340 g) sliced mushrooms
12 oz (340 g) snow pea pods, trimmed
1 bunch green onions, bias cut, white parts separated from green parts
1/2 lb (225 g) fresh bean sprouts

Combine the first 8 ingredients (through sugar) in a blender. Blend until smooth. The sauce should be about the consistency of ketchup.

Cook the soba noodles according to the package directions. Drain and set aside.

Heat the oil in a wok until it’s smoking. Add half the tofu to the oil, stirring constantly to prevent sticking. Continue frying for 3 to 4 minutes, until the tofu is golden. Remove the tofu with a slotted spoon and drain on a paper towel-covered paper grocery bag. Repeat with the remaining tofu until it’s all cooked and drained.

Remove all but 1 tablespoon of the oil from the wok or large frying pan. On a high heat, stir-fry the bell pepper for 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the pea pods and white parts of the green onions. Stir-fry for another 2 to 3 minutes, until all the vegetables are tender, but still crisp. Stir in the green onions (green parts) and bean sprouts. Remove the wok from the heat.

Toss the tofu in about 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the peanut sauce. In a large serving bowl, mix the cooked soba noodles, vegetables and half the peanut sauce. Add more sauce as needed to coat all the noodles and vegetables. I usually end up using all but a couple tablespoons of sauce. Garnish with cilantro.

***

Sesame Vinaigrette

Makes about 1/2 cup (120 ml)

1 teaspoon mirin
1 teaspoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon sesame oil
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
dash of red pepper flakes

Whisk together all the ingredients until slightly emulsified (or shake to combine in a screw-top jar). Cover and refrigerate if not using immediately.

Orange and Soy Salmon with Soba Noodles and Roasted Broccoli

On my way home from picking the kids up at day care yesterday, I realized that I’d forgotten to buy green beans, which I’d planned to make for dinner that night. What I did have, though, was a head of broccoli, so I went online to search for a roasted broccoli recipe and found this one with soy sauce and sesame seeds, a perfect complement to the salmon I’d started marinating earlier that afternoon. I’d never roasted broccoli before, but when the first search result that came up was “the best broccoli of your life”, I had to try it. My 15-month-old baby certainly seemed to think so — he couldn’t get enough of it, as well as the salmon.

The best thing about this dinner is that broccoli and salmon are two of the top 10 super foods, so it packs a real punch for one plate. It also doesn’t hurt that aside from marinating the salmon (which takes 5 minutes to pull together earlier in the day), the whole dinner takes less than half an hour to make from start to finish, helped by the fact that the salmon and broccoli cook at the same temperature and for the same amount of time.

You could serve this dinner either by combining the roasted broccoli and soba noodles and then serving the salmon fillet on top, or by keeping the three dishes separate.

Roasted Orange and Soy Salmon
from Bon Appétit, April 2003

Serves 4

1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine
1/4 cup (60 ml) orange juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce
4 x 6 oz (170 g) salmon fillets, with skin

Mix the wine, orange juice and soy sauce in a glass baking dish large enough to hold all the salmon. Place the salmon, skin side up, in the dish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours, turning occasionally.

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C). Line a baking sheet with foil. Shake any excess marinade off the salmon. Transfer the salmon to the baking sheet, skin side down. Roast until the fish is opaque in the center, about 14 minutes. Sprinkle the salmon with salt and transfer to plates.

***

Roasted Broccoli with Soy Sauce and Sesame Seeds
adapted from VeggieGardener.com

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 lb (450 g) fresh broccoli (1 large or 2 small heads), broken into florets
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C).

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, soy sauce and sesame oil (or shake to combine in a screw-top jar).

Place the broccoli florets in a bowl and toss well with the soy dressing. Arrange the florets in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, stir and continue roasting for 5 minutes more, or until the broccoli is tender-crisp and slightly browned on the edges.

While the broccoli roasts, toast the sesame seeds in a dry pan over a very high heat for 30 to 60 seconds, taking care that they don’t burn. When the broccoli is done, put it back into the bowl, add in the sesame seeds, and toss again. Serve hot.

***

Soba Noodles
from Bobby Flay

Serves 4

1 lb (450 g) soba noodles, cooked al dente
1/2 cup (120 ml) soy sauce
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1/4 cup (5 g) chopped fresh cilantro
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 scallions, finely chopped

Place the noodles in a large bowl. Whisk together the soy sauce, lime juice, garlic, ginger, olive oil and sesame oil. Pour over the noodles, add the cilantro and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with scallion.

Thai Crumbled Beef in Lettuce Wraps with Cucumber Carrot Salad and Mango Fool

I don’t know what tempted me to try making something with nam pla for the first time — a sauce made from fermented fish doesn’t exactly get your mouth watering. But now if I see a recipe that calls for it, especially when combined with lime juice, chances are good that I’m going to make it. If you’ve never had it before, do try it. (If you’re still not convinced, check out what this couple has to say about fish sauce.) The flavors in this menu are cool, crisp and perfect for summer.

Thai Crumbled Beef in Lettuce Wraps
from Forever Summer by Nigella Lawson

Serves 6 as an appetizer or 2 to 3 as a main course

If you want to perk the lettuce leaves up a little, making sure they curve into appropriate cups for later, leave them in a sinkful of very cold water while you cook the minced beef, then make sure you drain them well before piling them up on a plate.

1 teaspoon vegetable oil
2 chilies, finely chopped
13 oz (375 g) beef mince
1 scant tablespoon Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
4 green onions, dark green bits removed, finely chopped
zest and juice of 1 lime
3–4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 iceberg lettuce, leaves broken off

Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan on medium heat. Add the finely chopped chillies and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring occasionally, taking care not to let the chillies burn.

Add the beef, turn up the heat and, breaking up the mince with a wooden spoon or fork, cook for 3 or 4 minutes, until no trace of pink remains. Add the fish sauce and, still stirring, cook till the liquid has evaporated. Off the heat, stir in the spring onions, lime zest and juice and most of the cilantro. Turn into a bowl and sprinkle over the remaining cilantro just before serving. (Note: If your meat is very fatty, strain it into a serving bowl with a slotted spoon.)

Arrange the iceberg lettuce leaves on another plate — they should sit one on top of another easily enough — and let people serve themselves at the table, filling the leaves with spoonfuls of the meat and wrapping it in the lettuce like you would with a burrito.

***

beef wraps with cucumber carrot salad

Cucumber Carrot Salad
adapted from Gourmet, June 1994

Serves 6

The salad can be made up to 4 hours ahead and kept chilled and covered, but the cucumber will wilt and give off liquid.

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 1/2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablespoon sugar
1 chili, or to taste, seeded and minced
2 cucumbers, deseeded
1 carrot, coarsely grated
1/4 cup peanuts, chopped

In a bowl, stir together the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and chili until the sugar is dissolved.

Thinly slice the cucumbers (a food processor makes short work of this) and add to the chili mixture along with the grated carrot and peanuts. Toss the salad well.

***

Mango Fool
adapted from Gourmet, April 2000

Serves 6

The Gourmet recipe says that canned mangoes are excellent in this dessert if ripe fresh ones are unavailable. Use a drained (1 lb 14 oz/850 g) can of mango slices in syrup. If the canned fruits you buy are Alphonso mangoes (their favorite variety of mango), add an additional 1/2 cup (120 ml) cream. If you don’t want to bother putting the purée through a sieve, it won’t suffer for not having a perfectly smooth texture. I think you could also get away with not adding the gelatin, which would make this more of a traditional fool recipe of just sweetened fruit and whipped cream, though the gelatin elevates this into more of a mousse.

1 1/4 teaspoons unflavored gelatin
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
3 large very ripe mangoes, flesh coarsely chopped (4 cups)
1/4 cup sugar (55 g), or to taste depending on sweetness of mangoes
3/4 cup (180 ml) heavy cream

Sprinkle the gelatin over the juice in a small heatproof cup and let it stand 1 minute to soften. Purée the mangoes with the sugar in a blender until very smooth and force through a sieve into a large bowl.

Melt the softened gelatin in the cup in a pan of simmering water or in a microwave and stir into the purée. Beat the cream with an electric mixer until it just holds stiff peaks and gently fold into the purée.

Transfer the purée into 6 ramekins, small glasses, etc., or 1 large serving dish. Chill the fool, covered, for at least 8 hours.

Sliced Steak with Hot and Sour Sauce, Jasmine Rice, Cucumber Salad, and Oatmeal Cake

My husband was kind enough to plan and prepare dinner last night. We wanted a dish that would enhance our beef from local Sulzer Farm without covering up its taste. I supplied dessert, a simple yet satisfying oatmeal cake with broiled coconut topping taken from the amusing The Flavor of Wisconsin cookbook I have been perusing lately. The cookbook is filled with 19th- and 20th-century recipes from Wisconsin home cooks. The cake is quick to make and keeps moist covered at room temperature for several days.

Sliced Steak with Hot and Sour Sauce
adapted from The Food of Thailand: A Journey for Food Lovers by Kay Halsey and Lulu Grimes

Serves 3

2 tablespoons fish sauce
4 tablespoons lime juice
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon roasted chili powder
3–4 shallots, finely sliced
1/3 cup (1 oz) chopped cilantro
12 oz (340 g) porterhouse or other steak
red or green leaf lettuce leaves, to serve

Mix the fish sauce, lime juice, sugar and chili powder in a bowl. Add the shallots and cilantro.

Grill the steak until medium or medium rare. Using a sharp knife, slice the cooked beef crossways into strips.

To serve, line a plate with lettuce leaves and top with the steak, then spoon the chilli mixture over the steak to taste. Jasmine rice is a delicious complement to the meat, though white rice could be used if jasmine rice isn’t available.

***

Cucumber Salad

Serves 3

1/4 cup (60 ml) rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
1/4 cup (1/2 oz) chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1 jalapeno (or other chil), thinly sliced or minced
1–2 shallots, thinly sliced
1 cucumber, sliced into thin half-moons

In a mason jar or other quart-size container, mix together the vinegars, cilantro, salt, sugar, jalapeno and shallots. Add the cucumber and enough water to cover the cucumbers (about 1/2 cup/120 ml). Stir. Cover and chill.

***

Oatmeal Cake
adapted from The Flavor of Wisconsin by Harva Hachten and Terese Allen

1 1/2 cups (360 ml) boiling water
1 cup quick-cooking oats
1/2 cup (110 g) butter
1 cup (200 g) packed brown sugar
3/4 cup (170 g) sugar
2 eggs
1 1/2 cups (170 g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon salt

for the topping:
1/4 cup (50 g) packed brown sugar
1/2 cup (120 ml) half and half
1 cup flaked coconut
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup chopped roasted pecans

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease and flour a 9 x 13-inch pan.

In a small bowl, pour boiling water over the oats. Mix well and set aside to cool.

Cream together the butter and sugars, then beat in the eggs. Stir in the cooled oatmeal. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon and salt, then stir in slowly to the oatmeal mixture. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 30 to 35 minutes. Cool and frost with the topping.

To make the topping, combine the sugar and half and half and bring just to the boil, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and stir in the remaining ingredients. Spread onto the cooled cake, then place under the broiler until browned.