All posts by Kristin

Potatoes, Poultry

Slow Roast Chicken with Vermouth and Mashed Potatoes with Crème Fraîche

It’s often said that a cookbook is worth its purchase price even if you only make a few recipes out of it. I’ve had the River Café Two Easy book for years but have never really been excited about most of the recipes in it — except this one. This is a roast chicken worth writing home about. You roast it at a very low temperature for three hours, flipping it over once an hour, then jack up the heat for the final 30 minutes to crisp the skin to a picture-perfect golden brown. The chicken is unbelievably moist — roasting it at such a low temperature makes it almost impossible to dry out — and the flavors of the lemon, garlic and rosemary in the cavity really penetrate into the meat. If you know you’ll be home all afternoon, there is no better dinner to make, as you can bask in the amazing aromas that will drift out from your kitchen for hours. Once you make this, I’m willing to bet that, like me, you won’t want to roast a chicken any other way again.

The tang of the crème fraîche in the mashed potatoes is a good match for the lemon and vermouth in the chicken. Depending on what time of year it is, I like to also serve this with simple sauteed carrots or green beans dressed with lemon and olive oil.

Slow Roast Chicken and Vermouth
adapted from River Café Two Easy by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers

Serves 4

1 x 4.5‑lb (2‑kg) whole chicken
1 lemon
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 garlic cloves
2 sprigs of fresh rosemary
7 fl oz (200 ml) water
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup (120 ml) extra-dry vermouth or a dry white wine*

*Feel free to omit the alcohol altogether. It won’t really affect the flavor of the chicken, just the juices.

Preheat the oven to 175°F (80°C) and wipe the chicken clean.

Cut the lemon in half. Rub one half of the lemon all over the chicken, getting as much juice onto the skin as you can.

Season the cavity with salt and pepper. Peel the garlic, wash the rosemary and stuff it into the chicken, along with both lemon halves.

Place the chicken upside down in a roasting tin just large enough to hold it. Add the water. Cook for 1 hour, then turn right side up (I can usually just do this with my bare hands since the roasting temperature is so low). Return it to the oven and cook for another hour, then turn upside down again and cook for yet another hour.

Remove the chicken from the oven and raise the temperature to 400°F (200°C). Brush the melted butter all over the skin, season very well with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, and add the vermouth to the pan.

Return the chicken to the oven (make sure it finishes right side up) and cook for 30 minutes, until golden brown and the juices run clear. Strain the fat and serve with the lemony, salty juices from the pan.

***

Mashed Potatoes with Crème Fraîche
adapted from Bon Appétit, January 2002

Serves 6

3 1/2 lb (1. 5 kg) russet potatoes, peeled and quartered (or any good mashing/boiling potato variety, such as Yukon Gold, Maris Piper or Kerr Pinks)
2/3 cup (160 ml) crème fraîche or sour cream
4 tablespoons (60 g) butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the potatoes in a large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, about 25 minutes. Drain. Return the potatoes to the pot. Add the crème fraîche and butter and mash until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. (Potatoes can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Rewarm over a low heat, stirring frequently.)

Pork, Potatoes

Pork Chops and Roasted Potatoes with Blue Cheese Dressing

Last week I admitted to getting cable just so I could watch the Barefoot Contessa’s shows, but an unexpected bonus has been discovering Tyler Florence on the Food Network. He’s a real meat-and-potatoes kind of guy, but all taken to the next level. This dish is a case in point — what would otherwise be a forgettable pork chop and roasted potato is transformed into something tantalizing simply by adding a blue cheese dressing. So far I’ve wanted to make just about everything I’ve seen on his show, and invariably my husband comments that he wouldn’t complain if I made whatever Tyler’s cooking on TV. This is an easy weeknight dinner, requiring only a bit of chopping for the potatoes and any vegetable you want to serve, a quick stir to make the dressing and 10 minutes spent at the stove to fry the pork chops.

Since you’ll already have the oven on at a high heat for roasting the potatoes, a roasted vegetable would be a good choice to serve alongside the pork and potatoes. Roasted beets would complement the flavors in the blue cheese well, or you could try roasted winter vegetables, roasted parsnips and carrots, roasted squash, roasted broccoli or roasted Brussels sprouts.

Pork Chops and Roasted Potatoes with Blue Cheese Dressing
adapted from Tyler Florence

Serves 4

2 lb (900 g) baby potatoes, cut in half through the equator
extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 thick pork chops (about 3 lb/1.4 kg) total
1 bunch fresh mint, leaves only

for the blue cheese dressing:
1/2 cup (100 g) crumbled blue cheese
1/2 cup (120 ml) buttermilk
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch fresh chives, minced

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Pour enough olive oil in a roasting tin, baking sheet or casserole dish to coat the bottom, then place the tin in the oven to heat the oil.

Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Add the potatoes to the boiling water and boil for 5 minutes, then drain. Add the parboiled potatoes to the hot oil in the roasting tin, stirring well to ensure all the potatoes are coated with oil. Season well with salt and pepper, then roast in the oven for 30 minutes.

To make the dressing, put the cheese, buttermilk and olive oil in a small bowl and stir together with a fork, mashing a little to break up the cheese. Season with the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and chives.

When the potatoes have cooked for 20 minutes, season the chops with salt and pepper. Put a large saute pan over medium heat, add a splash of olive oil, and heat until it begins to smoke. Add the pork chops and saute until golden brown on the outside and just barely pink inside, 4 to 6 minutes on each side.

To serve, put a chop on each of 4 plates. Put the potatoes in a bowl and drizzle with the dressing. Add the mint and toss. Set one portion of the potatoes on top of each chop and serve.

Pork, Potatoes, Poultry

Chicken and Chorizo Hash

Regular readers will already know that I’m a huge fan of Ina Garten, a.k.a. the Barefoot Contessa. In fact, after nearly a decade of hardly ever watching TV and happily making do with only four channels, one of which was the Irish language channel, I got cable last month just so I could watch her show. Her recipes are always outstanding, and she works her brand of magic to take something as classic or simple as, say, potato leek soup and turn it into the best version you’ve ever had.

Over the Christmas break I saw an episode where she made a chicken hash, and as I was watching it, I couldn’t help thinking that adding chorizo to the dish would make it better. I got the idea from a recipe I’ve made before, Nigella Lawson’s chicken and chorizo with cannellini beans, so I already knew it was a combination that works. I also substituted baby potatoes so that you don’t have to peel them, and even though I know chicken on the bone has more flavor than boneless, skinless chicken breasts, I adapted that too from her original to shave off a little time and eliminate a couple prep steps to make the recipe that much easier as a weeknight meal. The result was fantastic — the chorizo lent the entire dish a smoky, paprika-infused richness and transformed it from being just another ho-hum chicken dinner into something with a bit more kick.

Dare I say it, but I think I might have done the unthinkable — made a Barefoot Contessa recipe better.

Chicken and Chorizo Hash
adapted from Ina Garten

Serves 6

3 large chicken breasts
olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 lb (225 g) chorizo sausage, sliced or cubed, depending on size
2 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
2 lb (900 g) baby potatoes, quartered or cut into bite-sized dice, depending on size
2 red onions, chopped
2 red peppers, large diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried thyme)
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 tablespoon tomato paste
6 scallions, white and green parts minced
a large handful of chopped fresh parsley
sour cream and cheddar cheese, for serving

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

Place the chicken breasts on a baking sheet. With your hands, rub each piece on both sides with olive oil and sprinkle very generously with salt and pepper. Roast the chicken for 35 to 40 minutes, until the skin is lightly browned and the chicken is just cooked through. Set aside until cool enough to handle, then cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat a large saute pan, then add the chorizo. Once the chorizo has started to release its oil and has become a little browned and crispy, remove the pieces from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to the same pan, then add the potatoes and onions, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and saute over a medium heat for 20 to 30 minutes, until evenly browned and cooked through.

In a separate saute pan, melt the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Add the red peppers, garlic, thyme, paprika, tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and saute over a medium heat for about 5 minutes, until the edges of the peppers are seared.

Add the chicken and the pepper mixture to the potatoes along with the chorizo and heat through, stirring to combine all the ingredients. Add the scallions and parsley, toss together and place on a serving platter. Serve with sour cream and cheddar cheese on top.

30-minute meals, Asian food, Soups and stews

Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yam)

I’m not making resolutions this year and the closest I get to a New Year’s detox is to take a break from baking for a few weeks. This soup feels like it would fall into a detox kind of category, though (and truth be told, I could use a break from all the rich eating of the past few weeks). Its flavors are light, clean and refreshing, but it also has a warming, sinuses-clearing kick from the chilies. It’s what I crave if I have a head cold, and it works for a hangover too. You can serve this on its own if you’re feeling delicate — with the added bonus that it can be prepared in no time at all — or as a first course to another Thai dish, such as Pad Thai, or maybe Kelly’s Asian chicken salad and scallion pancakes. Or if you’re craving these kinds of fresh flavors but would like something a little more substantial to see you through a cold snap like we’ve been having in Ireland, then try this pumpkin and tomato laksa.

Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yam)
adapted from Nigella Bites by Nigella Lawson

Serves 4

a handful of fresh cilantro, leaves separated from the stems
approx. 1 1/2 quarts (1 1/2 liters) chicken stock
1 stick of lemongrass, tender inner part only, roughly chopped (or 1 stick dried lemongrass, left whole)
3 x 1/8 inch (1/4 cm) pieces of fresh ginger
juice and zest of 1 lime
4 tablespoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
1 green chili, deseeded and finely chopped
1 red chili, deseeded and finely chopped
140 g (5 oz) button mushrooms, halved or quartered, according to size
1 lb 2 oz (500 g) peeled raw prawns, thawed if frozen, or 2 small chicken breasts, cut into thin strips
5 small scallions, chopped

Heat the stock in a saucepan with the cilantro stalks, lemongrass, ginger, lime zest and juice, fish sauce and chilies. Bring to the boil, add the mushrooms and simmer for a few minutes, then add the prawns or chicken and spring onions and cook for a further 3 to 5 minutes, until the prawns are tender or the chicken is cooked. Remove the cilantro stems and ginger (and dried lemongrass, if used). Sprinkle with some chopped cilantro leaves and serve.

Grains and pulses, Middle Eastern food, Poultry

Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Lemon and Mint Couscous

I’m forgoing resolutions this year for a motto instead, one my German language teacher used to always say in school — work smarter, not harder. As a freelancer with deadlines always looming, two young children to look after and a house to constantly clean up after them, it’s become something of a necessity these days. One of the ways I’ve been trying to put this into practice is rethinking the kinds of meals I make during the week. I’m not averse to spending time cooking — far from it — but getting dinner on the table with a four-and-a-half-year-old and a 20-month-old who’s becoming more mischievous by the day is getting harder and harder lately. So now I’m looking through my cookbooks with an eye to what can be made quickly, easily and will make enough to have as leftovers the next night, freeing me up to spend more time with the children instead of at the stove. This chicken tagine is one such meal, the kind that’s even better on the second day. Life’s too short for resolutions I won’t keep, but work smarter, not harder are words you can live by.

Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Lemon and Mint Couscous
adapted from Rachel’s Favourite Food for Friends by Rachel Allen

Serves 4 to 6

Rachel Allen says that if you want to prepare this in advance (up to 24 hours), you could make the tomato sauce completely, let it cool (this is important) and toss the raw chicken pieces in it, then cover and put it all in the fridge. While it’s waiting for you, it will be marinating and even improving in flavor.

3 tablespoons olive oil
4 large chicken breasts
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 or 4 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 onions, chopped
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
3 x 14 oz (400 g) cans of chopped tomatoes
1 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
lime or lemon wedges, to serve
natural or Greek yogurt, to serve

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan or pot (one that has a lid) over a medium heat. Season the chicken breasts well with salt and pepper, then add them to the pan (in two batches if you have to) and brown them for a few minutes on each side. Remove from the pan and set aside.

In the same pan, add the carrots, onions, ground coriander, ground cumin, ginger and cinnamon. Season with salt and pepper. Stir, then cook on a low heat with the lid on for about 10 minutes, until the onions are soft. Add in the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add the tomato paste and chopped tomatoes, then add the chicken breasts back to the pan, nestling them into the sauce so that they’re covered. Cook on a low heat with the lid on, stirring every so often, for about 30 minutes, until the chicken is cooked. Alternatively, if you want the chicken to become even more tender, cook for about 1 hour, until the chicken falls apart easily when you prod it with a fork (this is how I always make it).

To serve, add most of the chopped cilantro to the pot and stir. Spoon some couscous (see below) onto a plate and spoon the chicken and sauce on top, with a wedge of lemon or lime on the side and a dollop of Greek yogurt and a final sprinkle of cilantro.

***

Couscous with Lemon and Mint

Serves 4

2 cups (400 g) couscous
2 tablespoons olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
2 cups (500 ml) boiling chicken stock or water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, cilantro or parsley

Place the couscous in a bowl, add the olive oil and lemon juice and mix well to coat the grains. Pour in the boiling stock or water and season with salt and pepper. Cover and allow to sit in a warm place until all the liquid has been absorbed, about 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff up the couscous with a fork (not a spoon, or it will stay stuck together) and stir in the chopped herbs just before serving.

Italian food, Rice

Bacon, Leek and Camembert Risotto

If there’s one thing I’ve learned in the nine years that I’ve been in charge of organizing and hosting Christmas for my little family, it’s that Christmas is a lot of work. All the behind-the-scenes shopping, planning, decorating, wrapping, cleaning and cooking isn’t exactly the stuff of Norman Rockwell paintings, but someone (and we all know who) has to do it. It’s certainly made me appreciate how hard my own mother must have worked to make the holidays magical for me and my brother and sister when we were growing up. That’s why I love the Irish idea of Women’s Christmas (Nollaig na mBan) on January 6th, when women are meant to get the day off while the men do the housework, kind of like an extra Mother’s Day. What I can’t understand is why the idea isn’t spreading like wildfire. Who wouldn’t like a day off from housework, a girls’ night out and an extra present?

If Women’s Christmas was going to be celebrated in my own house (hint, hint Hubby), then this is the dinner I’d request to be made for me as one last calorific holiday indulgence (though I already made it on St. Stephen’s Day as a way to use up some of our leftover Christmas ham). Risotto is one of my go-to winter dishes, and this version is my absolute favorite. The leeks become meltingly soft and mild, the bacon adds its signature salty, smoky depth, and the Camembert in place of the usual Parmesan elevates the whole dish into something special. In fact, it’s the dinner I asked my husband to make me the day I came home from the hospital with our son. But don’t feel that you have to wait for a special occasion to make this. It would also be the perfect rib-sticking antidote to any long, dark, cold winter night.

Bacon, Leek and Camembert Risotto

Serves 4

If you can’t find or don’t care for Camembert, or if you want to make a less rich, more everyday kind of risotto, use 1/2 cup (50 g) of Parmesan instead. You can also use leftover ham instead of the bacon here, or for a vegetarian version, use mushrooms instead of the bacon.

4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
2 leeks, white parts only, sliced
1 1/2 cups (300 g) risotto rice (Arborio rice)
1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine or extra-dry Martini
2 pints (1 liter) good-quality vegetable or chicken stock
6 to 8 slices of bacon or pancetta, depending on how thickly cut the bacon is
8 oz (225 g) Camembert cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the butter in a wide, deep saucepan and add the leeks. Cook to soften, about 10 minutes. Mix in the rice, stirring to give it a good coating of the butter. Allow it to cook for a minute or two, until the grains of rice start to turn translucent. Add the white wine or Martini and let it bubble away for a few minutes. Meanwhile, heat the stock in another saucepan and keep it at simmering point.

Once all the wine or Martini has been absorbed into the rice, pour a ladleful of the stock into the rice and keep stirring until the stock is absorbed. Then add another ladleful and stir again. Continue doing this until the rice is al dente. You may not need all the stock; equally, you may need to add a bit more hot water. Don’t rush this process — allow the rice to fully absorb each ladleful of stock before adding the next one.

While the risotto is cooking, heat a separate frying pan and cook the bacon or pancetta until crisp. Drain on paper towels, then chop into bite-sized pieces. Set aside.

When you’ve added almost all the stock, test the rice — the risotto is ready when the rice is tender but still has a little bite. When the risotto is done, mix in the Camembert cheese and the bacon. Divide between 4 serving bowls or plates, add seasoning to taste and serve immediately.

Italian food, Pasta and noodles, Salad dressings, Vegetarian main dishes

Easy Pasta Supper with Marcella Hazan’s Tomato Sauce

I’ve eaten so much pasta in my life that my blood must be part durum wheat by now. My childhood memories of dinner are crowded with images of a big bowl of salad and a basket of garlic bread on the table and a pot of spaghetti on the stove, with a huge bucket of Kemp’s ice cream in the freezer for dessert. It’s no wonder, then, that pasta is still my go-to comfort food or the first thing I think of when I want a quick dinner. After two weeks of time-consuming holiday cooking, I’m in the mood these days for something effortless but still satisfying. This famous tomato sauce from Marcella Hazan fits the bill on both counts. The recipe couldn’t be easier — melt some butter, put a halved onion in the pan, pour in some canned tomatoes and let it all simmer for 45 minutes — but the result is an alchemical kind of magic. It’s the little black dress of pasta sauces — simple, sophisticated and versatile. You wouldn’t think it was possible for a humble can of tomatoes to be transformed into such a silky-smooth sauce so full of flavor, but don’t wait much longer to try this and see for yourself. Add in a baby leaf salad tossed with my favorite balsamic vinaigrette, a loaf of Parmesan garlic bread and a nice bottle of wine, and my favorite childhood dinner feels all grown up.

Marcella Hazan’s Tomato Sauce
adapted from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan

Makes enough sauce for about 1 lb (450 g) of pasta, or 4 servings

5 tablespoons (75 g) unsalted butter
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and cut in half
1 x 28 oz can (or 2 x 14 oz/400 g cans) whole plum tomatoes, with their juices
salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the tomato sauce, melt the butter in a large pot (one that can also accommodate all the pasta later) over a medium heat, then add in onion halves and pour in the tomatoes with their juices. Season generously with salt and pepper. Bring the sauce to a simmer, mashing up the tomatoes gently with the back of a wooden spoon. Cook, uncovered, at a very slow but steady simmer, adjusting the heat as necessary, for about 45 minutes, or until droplets of fat float free from the tomato and the sauce has reduced and thickened. Stir occasionally, continuing to mash any large pieces of tomato with the wooden spoon. Taste for seasoning, then discard the onion when the sauce is ready. Add your cooked, drained pasta directly to the sauce in the pot and stir until all the pasta is coated.

***

Balsamic Vinaigrette
adapted from Epicurious, March 2003

Makes about 3/4 cup (180 ml)

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup (120 ml) olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a screw-top jar, combine the vinegar, mustard, garlic and oil, shaking well to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Asian food, Soups and stews, Vegetarian main dishes

Pumpkin and Tomato Laksa

Despite my recent cravings for hearty winter food, I’ve also been craving something with brighter flavors too. This laksa is warming and filling, and the clean flavors are a welcome respite from holiday excesses. Nigel Slater calls it a recipe to “restore and comfort.”

Pumpkin and Tomato Laksa
adapted from The Kitchen Diaries by Nigel Slater

Serves 4

1 small pumpkin or 1 butternut squash (9 oz/250 g unpeeled weight)
olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 or 2 red chillies, chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
a lump of ginger the size of your thumb, peeled and chopped
zest and juice of 1 lime
1 large bunch of coriander, leaves and stems
a little vegetable oil
2 stalks of dried lemongrass
2 cups (480 ml) ml vegetable or chicken stock
1 x 14-oz (400-ml) can of coconut milk
24 cherry tomatoes
2 tablespoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce)
4 oz (110 g) dried noodles, cooked according to packet instructions
a large handful of mint leaves, chopped

Preheat the oven too 400°F (200°C). Cut the pumpkin or squash into large chunks and place on a baking tray. Drizzle with olive oil and salt and pepper, then toss well to coat all the pieces in the oil and seasoning. Roast for about 30 minutes, until tender. Set aside.

Meanwhile, to make the spice paste, put the chopped chillies, garlic and ginger into the bowl of a food processor. Add the lime zest and half the coriander leaves and stems. Blitz everything to a pulp, adding a little oil if the mixture needs it to go around.

Place a fairly deep pan over a moderate heat, add half the spice paste (keep the other half in the fridge for another time) and fry it, moving it around the pan so it doesn’t scorch. Do this for 1 to 2 minutes, then add the lemongrass stalks, pour in the stock and coconut milk and bring to the boil.

Cut the tomatoes in half, and add them with the nam pla and lime juice. They will take 7 to 10 minutes to cook. Add the chunks of pumpkin or squash and continue cooking for 1 to 2 minutes. Place a swirl of cooked noodles in each of the 4 bowls, pour over the laksa and add the mint and remaining coriander leaves.