Bread, Soups and stews, Vegetarian main dishes

Roasted Garlic and Pea Soup with Bacon, Onion and Thyme Bread

Everyone has a few recipes in their repertoire that they can turn to if they want something fast or cheap. This recipe is both. The only reason the soup can’t be filed as a 30-minute meal is because the garlic takes an hour to roast, but if you do that the night before you want to make the soup, then you can have this soup on the table in about 20 minutes. This bread goes perfectly with the soup, but a good store-bought focaccia, ciabatta or garlic bread would do the trick just as nicely.

Roasted Garlic and Pea Soup
adapted from Real Food by Nigel Slater

Serves 2 to 3

1 head of garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cups (420 g) frozen peas
2 tablespoons (30 g) butter
4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan
1 3/4 cups (420 ml) vegetable or chicken stock, heated
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream, or to taste

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Cut the top off the head of garlic. Cut out a square of tin foil, large enough to make a baggy parcel around the garlic. Sit the garlic in the middle of the foil and drizzle with the olive oil. Make a loose parcel around the garlic, sealing the edges of the foil. Roast for about 1 hour, until soft.

Cook the peas in boiling salted water as usual. Drain and tip into a food processor or blender, then squeeze in the soft cooked cloves of garlic. Add the butter and Parmesan and half of the stock. Process to a creamy puree. Pour the mixture into a saucepan and add the remaining stock. Check the flavor and add cream to taste. Pour back into a saucepan and reheat gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

***

Bacon, Onion and Thyme Bread
adapted from Roly’s Café and Bakery by Paul Cartwright and Paulo Tullio

Makes 2 loaves

1 tablespoon olive oil
200 g bacon, chopped
1 large onion, finely diced
750 g strong white flour
2 tablespoons (30 g) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature
25 g sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 x 7‑g sachet dried yeast
(430 ml) tepid water
4 tablespoons milk
1 egg yolk
1 egg, beaten + 4 tablespoons milk, for the egg wash
pinch of sea salt, such as Maldon, to garnish

Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the chopped bacon and onion and cook for about 10 minutes, until the bacon is cooked through and the onion is soft but not browned. Remove from the heat and set aside. (If the mixture looks very oily, drain with a slotted spoon.)

Using a mixer with a dough hook, sieve the flour into the bowl on the lowest speed, adding the butter, sugar and salt. Add in the bacon and onion mixture as well as the thyme.

In another bowl, mix the yeast with the water, milk and egg yolk, making sure the yeast is fully broken down. The liquid should turn a pale gray.

Gradually add the liquid into the flour, increasing the speed of the mixer until it forms a dough. This should take about 7 to 10 minutes (double the time if mixing by hand). Turn off the mixer.

Remove the dough from the bowl and divide it in half. Shape into 2 round loaves or put into 2 lightly oiled tins and place on baking trays. Brush with the egg wash and sprinkle with sea salt. Cut straight across at an angle using a sharp knife and leave in a warm place, covered with a tea towel, for about 30 to 40 minutes, until doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C).

Place in the oven and bake for 30 minutes, adding a bowl of water to the bottom of the oven to prevent a skin from forming on the bread.

Desserts, Fruit, Holidays, Italian food, Pasta and noodles, Poultry

Turkey Tetrazzini and Cranberry Buckle

This is one of my favorite ways to use up leftover Thanksgiving turkey. It’s an adaptation of Jamie Oliver’s chicken and mushroom pasta bake recipe (spaghetti tetrazzini), which he says is “really tacky but gorgeous.” It got me thinking about how foods or recipes are as subject to trends as anything else. Chef’s salad, cheese fondue, shrimp cocktail and deviled eggs have all had their day (though I still love shrimp cocktail and deviled eggs). But how could you go wrong with wine and cream? That will never go out of style as far as I’m concerned. What are some of your favorite tacky or untrendy foods?

Turkey Tetrazzini
adapted from Jamie’s Italy by Jamie Oliver

Serves 4

1 oz (20 g) dried porcini mushrooms
2 cloves garlic, finely sliced
12 oz (340 g) button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
1 cup (240 ml) white wine
2 to 3 cups cooked shredded or diced turkey
1 lb (450 g) spaghetti
2 cups (480 ml) heavy cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 cups (200 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
extra virgin olive oil

Preheat the oven to 400ºF (200ºC).

Put the porcini mushrooms in a bowl and pour over just enough boiling water to cover them (approx. 1/2 cup /120 ml). Put to one side to soak for a few minutes.

Strain the porcini, reserving the soaking water, and add them to a frying pan big enough to hold all the ingredients (including the pasta) with the garlic and fresh mushrooms. Add the wine and the strained porcini soaking water and turn the heat down. Add the turkey to the pan. Simmer gently until the wine has reduced a little.

Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in plenty of boiling salted water according to the packet instructions and drain well. Add the cream to the pan of turkey, then bring to the boil and turn the heat off. Season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add the drained spaghetti to the creamy turkey sauce and toss well. Add three-quarters of the Parmesan and stir well. Transfer to an ovenproof baking dish or nonstick pan, sprinkle with half the remaining cheese and bake in the oven until golden brown, bubbling and crisp. Divide between your plates, drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and sprinkle with the rest of the cheese before serving. (Alternatively, you could serve this right after adding the drained spaghetti and Parmesan to the creamy turkey sauce and skip putting it in the oven.)

***

cranberry buckle

Cranberry Buckle with Vanilla Crumb
adapted from Rustic Fruit Desserts by Cory Schreiber and Julie Richardson

You can keep the leftover vanilla crumb in the freezer for up to 3 months and either use it to make another cranberry buckle or as a fruit crisp topping (or you could just halve the amounts called for here for the crumb topping).

Serves 8 to 12

for the vanilla crumb (makes 2 cups):
1 cup (120 g) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
1/4 cup (40 g) packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup (110 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4‑inch cubes
1 tablespoon vanilla extract

for the cranberry buckle:
1 3/4 cups (210 g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 cup (110 g) unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
zest of 1 orange
2 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup (120 ml) sour cream
2 cups (8 oz/225 g) cranberries, fresh or frozen

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter a 9‑inch square baking pan.

To make the vanilla crumb, combine the flour, sugars, salt and butter in the bowl of a food processor or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment. Pulse or blend until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Drizzle the vanilla over the mixture and either pulse or mix briefly to distribute the vanilla. Place the crumb mix in the freezer while you prepare the buckle.

To make the buckle, sift the flour, baking powder and salt together in a bowl. Set aside.

Using a hand-held mixer or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, sugar and orange zest together on medium-high speed for about 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition, then stir in the vanilla. Stir in the flour mixture in three additions, alternating with the sour cream in two additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture and scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice. Fold in half of the cranberries.

Spread the mixture in the prepared pan. Distribute the remaining cranberries over the cake and sprinkle the crumb topping over the cranberries.

Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until lightly golden and firm on top. Wrapped in cling film, this cake will keep at room temperature for 2 to 3 days.

Desserts, Drinks, Fruit, Holidays, Miscellaneous, Pork, Potatoes

Christmas 2009: Fully Festive Ham, Cranberry Chutney, Spiced Whipped Sweet Potatoes, Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts and Pancetta, and Maple Pecan Pie Squares

About seven or eight years ago, I made a Martha Stewart version of the infamous Campbell’s green bean casserole for the holidays. Instead of a can of cream of mushroom soup and a can of french-fried onions, her recipe called for Gruyère cheese, which back then I could only find in Dublin, and pan-fried shallots. I had such high hopes for the recipe, but for all the fancy ingredients, Matt and I swore it tasted just the same as the casserole of our childhoods. It had a bad work-to-glory ratio. What I love about the ham, which I’ve made every Christmas for the past five years, and these maple pecan pie squares, which I made a couple weeks ago, is that they have a high work-to-glory ratio. The gist of the theory is that the recipes are simple but absolutely delicious, as opposed to something that’s time consuming or difficult that winds up tasting not much better than what you can get out of a can. As much as I love to cook and indulge at the holidays, I’m all for basking in the glory of a house full of well-fed people at Christmas with a minimum amount of work.

***

Mulled Wine (Glühwein)
adapted from Rachel’s Favourite Food for Friends by Rachel Allen

Serves 6 to 8

1 bottle of red wine (you don’t need your best red, but something decent)
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
4 cloves
1/2 orange, cut into 4 chunks
1 lemon, cut into 4 chunks
1 cup (240 ml) brandy
halved orange slices from the remaining 1/2 orange, to serve

Put the wine, sugar, cinnamon, cloves, orange and lemon into a saucepan. Heat very gently, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Keep on a low heat, without boiling, for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the brandy. Serve in glasses, each with a new orange slice in it.

***

Fully Festive Ham
adapted from Feast by Nigella Lawson

Serves 8 to 10

The only slightly tricky bit about this menu is timing the ham if you want to make the cabbage with the stock, since the ham takes about 4 hours to cook and the cabbage needs 1 hour. Just be sure to take note of that and leave yourself plenty of time.

7 1/2 to 8 lb (3.4 to 3.6 kg) ham
2 quarts (2 liters) apple juice
2 quarts (2 liters) cranberry juice
2 cinnamon sticks, halved
2 onions, halved but not peeled
1 tablespoon allspice berries (optional)

for the cranberry glaze:
4 tablespoons cranberry jelly or 6 tablespoons cranberry sauce
1 tablespoon runny honey
1 tablespoon English mustard powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Put the ham into a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and then immediately drain and rinse the ham in a colander, which will get rid of any excess saltiness.

Rinse the saucepan and put the ham back in and add all of the above ingredients (except for the glaze). If the fruit juices don’t cover the ham, then add some water; it really depends on how snugly your ham fits into the pot. Bring the liquid to a boil and cook the ham at a fast simmer for about 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Partially cover the pot with a lid if the liquid is boiling away and the top of the ham is getting dry.

Once the ham is cooked, remove it from the hot and now salty juice, and sit it on a board (if you’re making the cabbage with the stock, don’t throw the stock away). If you want, you can cook this well ahead of schedule and let it get cold before glazing and roasting it. If that’s the case, cook it for half an hour less in the pot and then let it get cold in the cooking liquid.

But if you’re going ahead now, wait until the ham’s bearable to the touch – it’s easy to scald yourself on hot sugary fat – and then cut and peel the rind off the cooked ham, and make sure you have a thin layer of white fat off with it, or just use a knife to shave some fat off, so you’re left with a thin coating. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 420°F, though you can make this work with whatever setting you need your oven to be.

Heat the remaining glaze ingredients together in a saucepan until the jelly or sauce melts into the honey, mustard and cinnamon to make a smooth glaze. It needs to be thick enough not to run off the ham in the oven.

Cover your roasting tin with two layers of tin foil (to make doubly sure nothing gets through) and place the ham in the tin. Pour the glaze over the ham so that all of the fat/top is covered. Put the ham into the oven and cook for 15 minutes or until the fat is coloured and burnished by the sugary glaze. If you’ve let the ham cool completely before you glaze it, it will need a good 40 minutes at 350°F and you might have to give a final blast of real heat at the end too. And this is based on its being at room temperature, not fridge cold, when it goes in.

***

Fully Festive Red Cabbage
adapted from Feast by Nigella Lawson

Serves 6

1 to 1 1/2 heads of red cabbage, shredded
cranberry and apple juice stock from the Fully Festive Ham

Bring the ham stock back to the boil and add the shredded cabbage. Cook for approx. 1 to 1 1/4 hours at a steady simmer, covering the pan if it’s losing too much liquid. Strain to serve.

***

Cranberry Chutney with Crystallized Ginger and Dried Cherries
adapted from A Homemade Life by Molly Wizenberg

Makes about 5 cups

This will keep for a week in the fridge, stored in an airtight container. Note that this chutney reaches its thick, jammy consistency only as it cools, so it will still be somewhat loose when you first remove it from the heat.

24 oz (680 g) apricot preserves
3/4 cup (180 ml) raspberry vinegar (or 3/4 cup (180 ml) white vinegar plus 1 1/2 teaspoons raspberry preserves)
pinch of salt
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 cup (60 ml) Grand Marnier, Cointreau or Triple Sec (or orange juice for a nonalcoholic version)
24 oz (680 g) fresh cranberries, picked over
1/2 cup (70 g) finely chopped crystallized ginger
1 1/4 cups (150 g) dried cherries

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the apricot preserves, raspberry vinegar (or vinegar and raspberry preserves), salt, cloves and Grand Marnier. Stir to mix, then place over a medium-high heat. Bring the mixture back to a boil and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until it has thickened slightly. If will bubble, so stir it regularly with a long-handled wooden spoon to keep it from burning.

Reduce the heat to medium, add the cranberries and cook until they’re soft but not popped. When you hear one or two pop, it’s a good sign that the rest are getting soft. Add the ginger and cherries, stir well, and remove from the heat. Cool completely before serving. The chutney will thicken considerably as it cools.

***

Spiced Whipped Sweet Potatoes
adapted from Bon Appétit, November 2002

Serves 6 to 8

This dish can be made 1 day ahead (always a bonus for a big holiday dinner). Cover and refrigerate, then rewarm over a medium-low heat, stirring frequently. Alternatively, cover with plastic wrap and rewarm in a microwave oven on high until heated through.

6 x 8‑oz (225‑g) sweet potatoes (yams)
1/2 cup (packed) (85 g) golden brown sugar
1/4 cup (55 g) butter, room temperature
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons orange zest
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon ground allspice
3/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
cinnamon sticks, to garnish (optional)
orange peel strips, to garnish (optional)

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C) and position the rack in the center of oven. Line a baking sheet with tin foil. Pierce the sweet potatoes in several places with a fork and place on the lined sheet. Bake until tender when pierced with fork, about 1 hour. Cool slightly.

Cut the potatoes in half. Scoop out pulp into a large bowl; discard the peel. Add the brown sugar, butter, lemon juice, orange zest, ground cinnamon, allspice, and nutmeg to the sweet potato pulp. Using an electric mixer or food processor, beat until the mixture is smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mound the sweet potatoes in a serving bowl. Garnish with cinnamon sticks and orange peel strips, if desired.

***

Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts, Pancetta and Parsley
adapted from Feast by Nigella Lawson

Serves 8 to 10

2 1/4 lb (1 kg) Brussels sprouts
9 oz (250 g) pancetta or bacon, chopped
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 tablespoons (30 g) butter
9 oz (250 g) vacuum-packed chestnuts
1/4 cup (60 ml) Marsala
a large bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
freshly ground black pepper

Slice the bottoms off each of the Brussels sprouts, cutting a cross onto the base as you go. Place the sprouts into a large saucepan of salted boiling water. Cook the sprouts for 5 minutes, or until they’re tender but still retain a bit of bite. Remove the pan from the heat and drain the excess water from the sprouts.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the pancetta or bacon to the pan and cook until it’s crisp and golden brown in color, but not cooked to the point of having dried out. Add the butter and chestnuts to the pancetta and with a wooden spoon or spatula, press down on them to break them up into pieces. Once the chestnuts have been warmed through, turn the heat up and add the Marsala to the pan. Cook until the mixture has reduced and thickened slightly. Add the sprouts and half the parsley to the saucepan and mix well. Season the Brussels sprouts with freshly ground black pepper.

To serve, place the Brussels sprouts onto a warmed serving plate and sprinkle the remaining chopped parsley over the top.

***

Maple Pecan Pie Squares with Bourbon Whipped Cream
adapted from Ezra Pound Cake 

Makes 25 squares

Don’t be put off by the long list of ingredients and lengthy method. I made these in about 15 minutes, and with two little kids underfoot at that. These can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

for the crust:
1 1/4 cups (150 g) all-purpose flour
1/3 cup (60 g) firmly packed golden brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (110 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into 3/4‑inch pieces

for the maple pecan filling:
6 tablespoons (90 g) unsalted butter
1/3 cup (80 ml) pure maple syrup
2/3 cup (120 g) firmly packed golden brown sugar
1/3 cup (80 ml) heavy cream
2 cups (8 oz/250 g) coarsely chopped pecans (don’t chop them too small)

for the bourbon whipped cream:
1 cup (240 ml) whipping cream
1 tablespoon bourbon
1 tablespoon sugar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 350°F (180°C). Line a 9‑inch square baking pan with aluminum foil or baking parchment paper, letting the foil or paper extend up the sides and over the edges. If using foil, butter the foil, or spray it with nonstick spray.

To make the crust, combine the flour, brown sugar and salt in a food processor (or by hand). Add the butter and pulse (or use a pastry blender) until the mixture forms pea-sized coarse crumbs. Press the crumbs into the bottom of the pan and bake until the edges are lightly browned and the top feels firm, 12 to 17 minutes. Set aside.

To make the filling, combine the butter, maple syrup and brown sugar in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Stir until the butter melts and the brown sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil and boil for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the cream. Stir in the pecans. Pour the hot filling over the partially baked crust, spreading it to the edges with an offset spatula or wooden spoon.

Bake until the filling is set when you give the pan a gentle shake, 22 to 25 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool until firm, about 1 1/2 hours.

Meanwhile, to make the bourbon whipped cream, whip the cream, bourbon and sugar together until soft peaks form. Taste and add more sugar if you think it needs it to balance the bourbon. Set aside in the fridge until ready to serve.

Using the ends of the foil or paper liner, carefully lift the maple-pecan square in its liner from the baking pan. Run a knife around the edges of the square to loosen it from the foil or paper. Using a large, sharp knife, cut into 25 small squares. Serve with a dollop of the bourbon whipped cream on the side.

30-minute meals, Asian food, Desserts, Pasta and noodles, Soups and stews, Vegetarian main dishes

Vegetarian Udon Soup, Gingered Baby Bok Choy, and Coconut Sorbet with Pineapple

I’m always pretty glum on the last CSA pickup of the season. What is there to look forward to food-wise for the next six months, except maybe a month or two of good oranges and our pork delivery? I already miss the corn, zucchini, basil and tomato overload of September. I’m fortunate that our CSA delivers through November; I like that we can eat seasonally and locally until winter begins in full force. This week’s box was filled with winter squash, celeriac root, and broccoli. To my surprise, we also received a few bunches of beautiful baby bok choy. The bright emerald green leaves and pale tender stems were almost too pretty to eat, but we had guests for dinner so I had to sacrifice them.

Dessert was almost embarrassingly simple to make, decadent tasting, and gluten-free. The coconut sorbet tasted especially nice when paired with fresh pineapple.

Vegetarian Udon Soup

Serves 4

12 oz (340 g) udon noodles
6 cups (1 1/2 liters) broth
1 teaspoon sesame oil, plus more for serving
1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce
1‑inch piece of fresh ginger, thinly sliced
14 oz (400 g) firm tofu, diced
1 daikon, peeled and cut into thin half moons

6 oz (170 g) pea pods
1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced
4 oz (110 g) shitake, cremini, or enoki mushrooms (or 2 oz (60 g) dried shitake mushrooms, rehydrated), sliced
8 oz (225 g) spinach leaves
1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons miso paste dissolved into 1 cup (240 ml) hot water
1 carrot, shredded
Siracha hot sauce or ground dried chiles

Cook the udon in salted boiling water until tender, according to package instructions. Drain and rinse under cold water until cool.

Meanwhile, place the broth in a large pot and bring to a boil. Add the sesame oil, tamari, ginger, tofu and daikon. Simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in the pea pods, bell pepper, and mushrooms. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the spinach and scallions. Stir in the miso paste and water.

To serve, divide the udon noodles among 4 bowls. Ladle the soup over the noodles and garnish with a bit of shredded carrot. Season with more sesame oil, tamari, and siracha or ground chiles, to taste.

***

Gingered Baby Bok Choy

Serves 4

1 lb (450 g) baby bok choy
2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
1‑inch piece of fresh ginger, grated
3 cloves garlic, minced
8 oz (225 g) mushrooms, sliced
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil

Trim the stem ends off the bok choy and discard. Cut the top leaf portion from the bok choy stalk portion and set aside. Slice the bok choy stalks lengthwise into 1/2 inch-wide pieces.

Heat the oil in a wok or large saute pan over a high heat. When the oil is hot, stir in the grated ginger and minced garlic. Cook over a high heat, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute. Do not let the garlic burn. Add the stalks of the bok choy and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and soy sauce and stir-fry for another 2 minutes. Sitr in the leaf portion of the bok choy and continue to cook over a high heat, stirring constantly until the leaves are wilted. Turn off the heat and drizzle the sesame oil over the bok choy. Serve immediately.

***

Coconut Sorbet
adapted from the Blue Ginger restaurant, Wellesley, MA

Makes 1 quart (about 1 liter)

2 x 14 ‑oz (400-ml) cans coconut milk
1 cup (80 g) dessicated coconut
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
1 pineapple, rind removed, cored, quartered and sliced into 1/2‑inch pieces

In a medium saucepan, combine the coconut milk, coconut, and sugar and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is completely dissolved. Remove from the heat, cool, then refrigerate until fully chilled, about 2 hours. Freeze the mixture in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. Serve with fresh pineapple.

30-minute meals, Pasta and noodles, Seafood

Baked Salmon with Leeks, Parmesan Tortellini, and Roasted Brussels Sprouts

Since last night’s dinner turned out so well, I decided to test my luck with another Bittman recipe and tried one of his fish preparations today. Like yesterday’s dinner, this meal was quick to prepare, tasty, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. One of the nice things about Bittman’s cookbook is the relatively low fat content of many of his meals. I like to save my calories for dessert (leftover pecan pie from our Thanksgiving feast). And if you think you don’t like Brussels sprouts, try them roasted. Just once. I promise they’re nothing like the mushy, bitter Brussels sprouts of your childhood.

Baked Salmon with Leeks
adapted from Mark Bittman’s Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times

Serves 4

1 1/2 lb (680 g) leeks
1/2 cup (120 ml) dry white wine or chicken or fish stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 1/2 lb (680 g) salmon or other fish fillet, about 1 inch thick

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Trim about 1/2 inch from the root ends of the leeks, then trim off all the tough green leaves. Cut the rest in half lengthwise and chop, then wash well in a colander, being sure to rinse between all the layers.

Scatter the washed leeks over the bottom of an ovenproof casserole. Mix with the wine or stock, salt, pepper, and mustard. Top with the fish, then sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper. Cover the casserole and put it in the oven.

Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until a thin-bladed knife meets little or no resistance when inserted into the thickest part of the fish. Uncover and serve the fish with the leeks and pan juice spooned over it.

***

Parmesan Tortellini

Serves 4 as a side dish

1 x 13-oz (370‑g) package cheese tortellini (Barilla recommended)
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese

Cook the tortellini until it’s al dente, according to package directions. Drain the tortellini (but do not rinse) and rinse out the pan. Add the olive oil and minced garlic to the pan and heat on medium, stirring occasionally, until the garlic is golden. Watch the pan carefully, as the garlic will go from golden to burnt in a matter of seconds. If the garlic burns, start over with new olive oil and garlic. Just as the garlic turns golden, turn off the heat. Return the tortellini to the pan and toss with the garlic and olive oil. Serve with the grated cheese.

***

Roasted Brussels Sprouts
from The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook by Ina Garten

Serves 6

1 1/2 lb (680 g) Brussels sprouts
3 tablespoons good olive oil
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Cut off the brown ends of the Brussels sprouts and pull off any yellow outer leaves. Mix them in a bowl with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Pour them on a sheet pan and roast for 35 to 40 minutes, until crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. Shake the pan from time to time to brown the sprouts evenly. Sprinkle with more kosher salt, and serve immediately.

30-minute meals, Appetizers, Asian food, Miscellaneous, Poultry, Salads

Asian Chicken Salad with Greens and Scallion Pancakes

From Issaquah to Birmingham, towns across the globe are finding that the recession has driven consumers from the ubiquitous Borders or Barnes & Nobles back to public libraries. Libraries are especially useful for people like me who love drooling over glossy cookbook pages but are too cheap to actually buy them. The stash of cookbooks at our East Side library is so overwhelming that I’ve taken to letting Sam pick out the cookbook we bring home with us. This week, I decided to try random picks at the beginning of the alphabet. Tonight we had “B” for Bittman — Mark Bittman, the New York Times’s Minimalist with the most. I’ve made several of his recipes, clipped from the inky pages of the Times, but this was my first time browsing through one of his cookbooks. I couldn’t be happier with my choice (Mark Bittman’s Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times). The book is filled with quick and easy recipes, just as it promises, with lots of notes on how to adapt the recipes depending on what you have on hand.

Though I’m not normally impressed with entree salads (it takes a lot of lettuce to fill me up), this chicken salad is truly satisfying. The scallion pancakes make a nice savory accompaniment, but a good baguette would work as well.

IMG_7747

Asian Chicken Salad with Greens
adapted from Mark Bittman’s Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times

Serves 4

1 1/2 lb (680 g) skinless, boneless chicken thighs (recommended) or breasts
1/4 cup (60 ml) soy sauce
3 tablespoons tahini or peanut butter
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1 clove garlic, peeled
a few drops of hot sauce
salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar or other mild vinegar
1 cucumber
6 cups (7 oz/200 g) salad greens
2  scallions, chopped
cilantro and grated carrot, to garnish

Preheat the broiler. Cut the chicken meat into 1/2- to 1‑inch chunks, then place in a 13 x 9‑inch baking dish and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce.

In a blender, combine the remaining soy sauce with the tahini, sesame oil, garlic, hot sauce, salt, pepper, sugar and vinegar. Turn the blender on and add 1/3 cup (80 ml) hot water, a teaspoon at a time, until the mixture is smooth and creamy. Cool the dressing in the refrigerator.

Broil the chicken, turning once or twice. Total cooking time will be 10 to 12 minutes for thighs or 6 to 8 minutes for breasts. Meanwhile, peel the cucumber (if it’s waxed), slice it in half the long way, and scoop out the seeds with a grapefruit spoon. Cut it into 1/2‑inch dice, and combine in a bowl with the dressing. When the chicken is done, let it rest and cool for a few minutes, then toss it and the cucumber with a few tablespoons of the dressing. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve the chicken and cucumbers on top of greens, garnished with cilantro and shredded carrot. Pass extra dressing so everyone can add dressing to his or her taste.

***

IMG_7745

Scallion Pancakes
from Mark Bittman’s Quick and Easy Recipes from the New York Times

Serves 4

salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 bunches scallions or spring onions, about 1 lb (450 g)
1 egg
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1/2 cup (60 g) flour
peanut, canola or olive oil as needed

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil while you trim the scallions. Roughly chop three bunches, and mince the fourth.

Add the larger portion of scallions to the water, and cook for about 5 minutes, or until tender. Drain, reserving about 1/2 cup (120 ml) of the cooking liquid. Puree the cooked scallions in a blender, adding just enough of the cooking liquid to allow the machine to do its work.

Mix the puree with the egg and soy, then gently stir in the flour until blended. Add pepper to taste, then the reserved minced scallions. Film a nonstick or well-seasoned skillet with oil, and turn the heat to medium-high. Drop the batter into the pan by the tablespoon or quarter cup, and cook about 2 minutes to a side, or until lightly browned. If necessary, the pancakes can be kept warm in a 200°F (95°C) oven for about 30 minutes.

Casseroles, Mexican food, Poultry

Sour Cream Chicken Enchiladas with Baked Acorn Squash

Last month I mentioned that I grew up in Texas, so it probably won’t surprise you that Tex-Mex food is my choice of comfort food. And nothing is more Tex Mex (or more comforting) than a steaming hot plate of cheesy, slightly spicy enchiladas. I’ve made quite a few different enchiladas recipes over the years, some with chicken, some with cheese, some red, some white, some green, but my most recent batch of sour cream chicken enchiladas may be my best rendition yet. It also happens to be one of the easier versions that I’ve made.

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Easy Sour Cream Chicken Enchiladas
adapted from www.foodgeeks.com

Serves 4

3 cups (700 ml) water
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 teaspoon salt
1 carrot, roughly chopped
1 stalk celery, roughly chopped
1 large onion, diced
1/4 cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
12 corn tortillas
1/4 cup (55 g) butter
1/4 cup (30 g) flour
1 x 4‑oz (110‑g) can diced green chilies
1 cup (225 g) sour cream
1/2 lb (225 g) Monterey jack cheese, shredded
toppings: chopped cilantro, diced avocado, salsa

In a large saucepan, bring the water, chicken, salt, carrot, celery, and half of the onion to a boil. The water should cover the chicken by about a 1/2 inch; add more water if necessary. Reduce the heat and simmer until the chicken is just cooked through. Pour the chicken and vegetables through a strainer, reserving the broth. Set aside 2 cups (480 ml) of the broth, to be used for the sauce. The remaining broth can be frozen for later use. Discard the cooked vegetables. Cool the chicken, then shred it into pieces.

In a small frying pan, heat the vegetable oil. Fry each tortilla in the hot oil, about 30 seconds per side. Let the tortillas drain on a paper towel-covered paper grocery bag.

In a large saucepan (I use the same pan I cooked the chicken in), melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, whisking frequently. Do not let the roux brown, but it should bubble. Whisk in the broth and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and stir in the green chilies and sour cream. Cook the sauce until it’s smooth and creamy.

Lightly grease a 13 x 9‑inch baking dish. Spread 1 cup (240 ml) of sauce over the pan. Fill each tortilla with a couple tablespoons each of chicken, cheese, and the remaining onion. Roll up each tortilla and place seam side down in the prepared pan. Top with the remaining sauce and cheese and bake at 425°F (220°C) for 20 to 25 minutes, until bubbly. Serve with chopped cilantro, diced avocado, and salsa.

***

Baked Acorn Squash

Serves 2

acorn squash, or other winter squash
olive oil or butter
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Cut the squash in half, then scoop out the seeds and membrane. (I like to use a grapefruit spoon for this task.) Place the squash skin side down in a small roasting pan. Drizzle the squash with olive oil or place a pat of butter in the hollow of each, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Tightly cover the roasting pan with aluminum foil, then roast for 45 to 55 minutes, until the squash is tender. You may want to add 1/4 cup (60 ml) of water to the bottom of the pan to speed the cooking or when the squash is very large.

30-minute meals, Asian food, Cakes, Desserts, Fruit, Pasta and noodles, Vegetarian main dishes

Pad Thai and Banana Walnut Muffins

I’ve been known to judge Thai restaurants by the quality of their pad thai and I don’t think I’m alone. Of all the Thai dishes we Westerners enjoy, pad thai is probably the best known (i.e., most ordered). Variations run the gamut, from peanut butter-based sauces to super spicy chili-flecked noodles. I’ve tried making pad thai in the past with disappointing results. It seemed almost too hard to wade through all the variations to find a good recipe. A few things seem to be universal (rice noodles, peanuts, lime), but the true taste of pad thai, or what I wanted pad thai to be, eluded me until Reuben found this Alton Brown version. The small quantities of some of the hard-to-find ingredients may lead you to believe you don’t really need them, but trust me, you do. Somehow a couple tablespoons of dried shrimp or a few shreds of salted cabbage really make the dish what it is. And these odd ingredients all freeze or refrigerate well for several months, so they won’t go to waste.

I’ve been making the banana walnut muffins for years. They’re moist and not too sweet, with a nearly crisp top thanks to all the butter. These freeze well too. To freeze, simply cool the muffins, then drop them into a Ziploc bag. They’ll keep for up to two months. I grab a couple frozen muffins when I wake up in the morning, then by the time the kids are dropped off at school, I can leisurely enjoy the now-defrosted muffins in the car on my way to work.

Pad Thai
adapted from Alton Brown

Serves 2

1 oz (30 g) tamarind paste
3/4 cup (180 ml) boiling water
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
4 oz (110 g) rice stick noodles
8 oz (225 g) tofu, pressed and then cut into 1/2‑inch-wide strips
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons peanut oil
1 bunch scallions, chopped, divided
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 eggs, beaten
1 tablespoon salted cabbage
1 tablespoon dried shrimp
3 oz (90 g) bean sprouts, divided
1/2 cup (75 g) roasted salted peanuts, chopped, divided
freshly ground dried red chili peppers, to taste
1 lime, cut into wedges

Place the tamarind paste in the boiling water and set aside while preparing the other ingredients.

Combine the fish sauce, sugar, and rice wine vinegar in a small bowl and set aside.

Place the rice stick noodles in a mixing bowl and cover with hot water. Set aside while you prepare the remaining ingredients. Once the other ingredients are measured out into separate bowls, drain the water from the noodles and set them aside.

In a small bowl, toss the tofu with the soy sauce and let it marinate.

Press the tamarind paste through a fine mesh strainer and add to the sauce. Stir to combine.

Place a wok over a high heat. Once hot, add 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil. Heat the oil until it shimmers, then add the tofu. Cook the tofu until golden brown, moving constantly, for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the tofu from the pan to a small bowl and set aside.

If necessary, add some more peanut oil to the pan and heat until shimmering. Add two-thirds of the scallions and then the garlic. Cook for 10 to 15 seconds. Add the eggs to the pan; once the eggs begin to set up, about 15 to 20 seconds, stir to scramble. Add the remaining ingredients in the following order and toss after each addition: noodles, sauce, cabbage, shrimp, and two-thirds of the bean sprouts and peanuts. Toss everything until heated through, but no longer than 1 to 2 minutes total. Transfer to a serving dish. Garnish with the remaining scallions, bean sprouts, and peanuts. Serve immediately with the ground chili peppers and lime wedges.

***

The Palace Cafe’s Banana Walnut Muffins
adapted from The Palace Cafe

Makes 1 dozen

1 1/2 cups (180 g) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (150 g) sugar
3/4 cup (about 3 oz/90 g) chopped walnuts
1 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 ripe bananas, well mashed (about 1 1/4 cup)
1/2 cup (1 stick/110 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1 egg
2 1/2 tablespoons milk

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Grease 12 (1/2 cup) muffin cups or line with paper or silicone muffin liners. Mix together the flour, sugar, chopped walnuts, baking soda and salt in a large bowl. Combine the bananas, butter, egg and milk in a medium bowl. Add the banana mixture to the dry ingredients, mixing until just combined. Divide the batter among the prepared muffin cups. Bake until a tester inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

A Cooking Blog