I love having visitors, not least because I get to pull out all the stops and feed them well. We had some vegetarian friends over from the US for a long weekend visit last week, so I turned to some of my tried-and-true favorites: polpette di melanzane, ratatouille, lemon and pea risotto, and Moorish crunch salad with naan bread, plus roasted peaches with amaretti and Eton mess for dessert. My friend (the same friend who cracked his fridge shelf last year with a heavy pot of soup) was lamenting the fact that they’re tired of making the same old things from their small cookbook collection, so Adrian, here’s another fast and easy vegetarian recipe for you to add to your repertoire.

Do you have a favorite vegetarian recipe or a good vegetarian cookbook you could suggest for Adrian? Let us know in the comments!

Chili Bean Burritos with Corn Salsa
adapted from Every Day by Bill Granger

Serves 4

When serving this to my small children, I give them a tortilla on the side (because they still like to have what the grown-ups are having) and just put the bean mixture in a bowl with some corn salsa on top, which they can easily spoon up.

for the chili bean burritos:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 red pepper, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 red chili, deseeded and finely chopped
pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 x 14 oz (400 g) cans of kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 x 14 oz (400 g) can of chopped tomatoes
zest and juice of 1 lime
a small handful of fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
freshly grated cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, to serve
tortillas, to serve
natural yogurt or sour cream, to serve

for the corn salsa:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups (300 g) corn, either fresh or frozen
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 red chili, deseeded and finely chopped (optional)
a small handful of fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
zest and juice of 1 lime
salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the bean burritos, heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan over a medium-low heat. Add the celery, onion and red pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 7 to 10 minutes, until the vegetables have softened. Add the garlic, chili and spices and cook for 1 minute more. Add the kidney beans and tomatoes and stir well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to very low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes, until thickened. Stir in the lime zest and juice and the cilantro.

While the bean mixture is cooking, make the salsa. In a separate large pan, heat the oil over a high heat. Add the corn and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes. Tip the corn into a large bowl and stir through the celery, onion, chili, coriander, lime zest and juice. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside.

To serve, spoon some bean mixture down the middle of each tortilla, sprinkle with the grated cheese and wrap up firmly. Serve with the corn salsa and a spoonful of yogurt.

Of course I picked the warmest day of the year to roast chicken. But what could I do? The chicken had been marinating overnight and the only other dinner option involved a takeout menu. Happily, the chicken was worth the effort of hauling a fan up from the basement. I love make-ahead recipes and this is one of the best. Savory and succulent, the chicken went from fridge to plate in about 30 minutes.

The curried quinoa is one of many quinoa recipes that Kristin has kindly sent me. She jokingly labels them as my “friendly daily quinoa recipe” and occasionally questions whether I still want to be bombarded with them. And the answer is always yes! So far, they’ve all received rave reviews from my eager test subjects. Sam has become almost as big a fan of the grain as Reuben, and I can’t get enough of it either. A plate of quinoa is as satisfying as a bowl of pasta but without the usual sedating effects of processed (white) carbohydrates. I also prefer it to whole wheat pasta or brown rice, which can be a bit too hearty for my tastes. This version would work nicely with raita and naan for a light vegetarian dinner.

Buttermilk Roast Chicken
adapted from Nigella Express by Nigella Lawson

Serves 6

3 lb (1.4 kg) chicken drumsticks and/or thighs
2 cups (480 ml) buttermilk
1/4 cup (60 ml) plus 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed with the back of a large knife, skins removed
1 tablespoon kosher salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons table salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper (coarse grind recommended)
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon maple syrup

Place the chicken in a large freezer bag and add the buttermilk and 1/4 cup (60 ml) of oil. Add the garlic cloves to the bag with the  salt and pepper. Sprinkle in the ground cumin and finally add the maple syrup. Squish around everything in the freezer bag  to mix the marinade and coat the chicken. Seal the bag, then place on top of a plate or other container (in case of leaks) in the fridge. Leave the buttermilk-marinated chicken in the fridge ideally overnight or out of the fridge for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Take the chicken pieces out of the bag and shake off the excess marinade. Arrange them in a roasting pan lined with aluminum foil.

Drizzle the 2 remaining tablespoons of oil over the chicken,  then roast the chicken in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until brown, even scorched in parts, and juicily cooked through.

***

Naomi Rose’s Curried Quinoa with Coriander and Cashews
adapted from The Irish Independent (by Aoife at Adventures in Veg), April 17, 2010

Serves 4 as side dish, 2 as main course

1 cup (170 g) quinoa
1 tablespoon sunflower or canola oil
1/2 red onion, chopped
1-inch piece of fresh ginger, grated
pinch of red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 cups (420 ml) water
1 bunch fresh coriander (cilantro), chopped
3/4 cup (120 g) frozen peas
a few handfuls of cashews

Rinse the quinoa well, drain, then set aside. Heat the oil in a pan over a medium heat, then add the onion and cook for about 5 minutes, until softened. Add the ginger and spices and cook for another minute or so. Stir in the salt and quinoa.

After a few minutes, add the water and half of the fresh coriander. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat, and simmer until all the water has been absorbed, about 15 minutes.

Add the peas (you might need to pour in a tiny bit more water) and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the peas are cooked. Add the rest of the coriander and the cashews just before serving. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If using unsalted cashews, you will likely need to add at least 1/2 teaspoon salt.

Tonight I wanted to make something special for Sam after his fantastic first dance class. My four-year-old nephew and in-laws also joined us for dinner. Strangely, I’m more nervous cooking for kids than adults. Kids aren’t afraid to tell you they don’t like your food and are more than willing to go hungry if necessary to prove it. When I saw this recipe for tiny meatball-filled soup I figured the kids (even my chicken nuggets-loving nephew) would be amused enough to eat it, even if the adults weren’t as impressed. Luckily, both kids and adults enjoyed the soup. The whole wheat pasta with Swiss chard was also a hit. You can find these recipes and other kid-friendly fare at our new Family Favorites page at the top of the site.

Italian Wedding Soup
adapted from Giada’s Family Dinners by Giada De Laurentiis

Serves 6 to 8

for the meatballs:
1 small onion, grated
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup (50 g) grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup (25 g) plain dry breadcrumbs
1 lb (450 g) ground beef

for the soup:
8 cups (2 liters) low-sodium chicken broth
1 lb (450 g) escarole, coarsely chopped
2 eggs
1/2 cup (50 g) freshly grated Parmesan
salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the meatballs, in a large bowl, stir together the onion, garlic, parsley, egg, salt and pepper. Using your hands, mix in the the cheese, breadcrumbs, and beef. Shape the meat mixture into 1-inch-diameter meatballs (about 75). Place on a baking sheet or large plate.

To make the soup, bring the broth to a boil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the meatballs and escarole and simmer until the meatballs are cooked through and the escarole is tender, about 8 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and cheese. Stir the soup in a circular motion. Gradually drizzle the egg mixture into the moving broth for about 1 minute, stirring gently with a fork to form thin stands of egg. Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls and serve.

***

Whole Wheat Spaghetti with Swiss Chard and Pecorino Cheese
adapted from Giada’s Family Dinners by Giada De Laurentiis

Serves 6

3 tablespoons toasted walnuts or pine nuts
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 onions, thinly sliced
2 bunches Swiss chard, trimmed and chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 x 14 oz (400 g) can diced tomatoes with juices
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 oz (340 g) whole wheat spaghetti
1/2 cup (70 g) pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino cheese

Preheat a small, heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Place the nuts in the hot skillet and stir them until they become golden brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes, taking care not to scorch them. Immediately place the toasted nuts in a separate bowl to cool and set aside.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and saute for about 8 minutes, until tender. Add the chard and saute for about 3 minutes, until it wilts. Add the garlic and saute for 1 minute, until fragrant. Stir in the tomatoes with their juices, wine, and red pepper flakes. Bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until the tomatoes begin to break down and the chard is very tender, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Season the chard mixture to taste with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender but still firm to the bite. Drain the spaghetti, add it to the chard mixture and toss to combine.

Transfer the pasta to a large bowl or platter. Sprinkle with the olives, cheese and nuts. Serve, passing extra cheese if desired.

To say my two-year-old son is a light eater is a bit of an understatement — he’s been known to go an entire weekend eating little more than a banana — but the night I made this risotto, he sat at the dinner table and practically chanted “more, more, more” in between mouthfuls and had a second helping.

As for the cake, I’d be hard pressed to think of a more perfect spring dessert than this. Light and lemony, it was still moist after three days — which is more than I can say for the overpriced “gourmet” cupcakes I bought in Dublin last week, which were so dry my children took only one bite and left the rest on the plate. My little boy might be a light eater, but he’s certainly a discerning one.

Lemon and Pea Risotto with Parmesan Roasted Asparagus
adapted from Nigella Bites by Nigella Lawson and Barefoot Contessa Family Style by Ina Garten

Serves 4

I love this lemon risotto on its own or as a springboard for adding in any number of other ingredients. Seafood is an obvious choice, and something like this roast fish wrapped in pancetta would be fantastic served alongside the risotto. I also like to serve it with grilled lemon chicken, or even leftovers from a slow roast chicken with vermouth.

These are the same flavors as in the gnocchi with peas, pancetta and lemon ricotta, so this is like a variation on that theme. If you wanted to make a little extra effort with the asparagus and aren’t concerned about the meal being vegetarian, you could omit the final sprinkle of Parmesan and wrap each stalk in a bit of Parma ham instead at the start, or perhaps simply crumble some cooked bacon or pancetta over the top of the dish for some extra flavor.

for the lemon and pea risotto:
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter
2 shallots or 1 small onion, finely chopped
1 rib celery, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups (300 g) risotto rice
1 cup (240 ml) white wine or extra-dry vermouth
approximately 1 quart (1 liter) vegetable stock
1 cup (140 g) fresh or frozen peas
zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
4 tablespoons grated Parmesan, plus extra for garnish
salt and freshly ground black pepper

for the Parmesan roasted asparagus:
1 bunch fresh asparagus
1 tablespoon good olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup (50 g) freshly grated Parmesan

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Heat the butter, shallots and celery in a wide, deep saucepan and cook to soften, about 5 minutes. Mix in the rice, stirring to give it a good coating of the butter. Allow it to cook for 1 or 2 minutes, until the grains of rice start to turn translucent. Add the white wine or vermouth and let it bubble away for a few minutes. Meanwhile, heat the stock in another saucepan and keep it at simmering point.

Once all the wine or vermouth has been absorbed into the rice, pour a ladleful of the stock into the rice and keep stirring until the stock is absorbed. Then add another ladleful and stir again. Continue doing this until the rice is al dente. You may not need all the stock; equally, you may need to add a bit more hot water. Don’t rush this process — allow the rice to fully absorb each ladleful of stock before adding the next one.

Meanwhile, once you’ve got the risotto going, snap off the woody ends of each asparagus stalk and discard. Lay the asparagus stalks in a single layer on a sheet pan and drizzle with olive oil, then sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, until tender. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and return to the oven for 1 minute more, until the cheese has melted. Set aside and keep warm while you finish the risotto.

When you’ve added almost all the stock, test the rice — the risotto is ready when the rice is tender but still has a little bite. When the risotto is done, mix in the peas, lemon zest and juice and the grated Parmesan. Cook for a few more minutes, until the peas have thawed and are warmed through. Divide between 4 serving bowls or plates and top with the roasted asparagus stalks. Serve with more grated Parmesan if you wish, add seasoning to taste and serve immediately.

***

Lemon Buttermilk Rhubarb Bundt Cake
adapted from Rustic Fruit Desserts by Cory Schreiber and Julie Richardson

Serves 10 to 12

Ina Garten recommends having all your baking ingredients at room temperature, so I’ve modified the recipe slightly to add that instruction here. You really do need to have the butter softened, but if you forget to take the buttermilk and eggs out of the fridge beforehand, don’t worry about it.

for the cake:
2 1/2 cups (300 g) plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, divided
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (225 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 3/4 cups (350 g) sugar
zest of 1 lemon
3 eggs, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon lemon extract (optional)
3/4 cup (180 ml) buttermilk, at room temperature
1 lb (450 g) rhubarb, trimmed and sliced very thin

for the lemon glaze:
2 cups (240 g) sifted confectioners’ sugar (icing sugar), plus more if needed
juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon (15 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C) and grease a 10-cup Bundt pan.

To make the cake, sift together the 2 1/2 cups (300 g) flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside. In a mixing bowl and using a hand-held mixer or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter, sugar and lemon zest at medium-high speed for 3 to 5 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, scraping down the bowl after each addition. Stir in the lemon extract, if using. Stir in the flour mixture in 3 additions, alternating with the buttermilk in 2 additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture and scraping down the bowl occasionally. The batter will be very thick.

Toss the rhubarb with the 2 tablespoons of flour. Fold half the rhubarb into the batter and pour batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle the remaining rhubarb on top.

Bake for 30 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake for an additional 30 minutes, or until the top of cake is firm and the center springs back when lightly touched. Cool the cake in its pan on a wire rack for 30 minutes before inverting and removing from the pan.

Meanwhile, to make the lemon glaze, whisk together the confectioners’ sugar, lemon juice and butter. The mixture should be thick. If it isn’t, add an additional 1 or 2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar. Drizzle the glaze over the cake as soon as you remove the cake from the pan.

Covered with a cake cover or plastic wrap, the cake will keep at room temperature for 3 to 4 days.

Much of my meal planning and dinner brainstorming is done at work while I slog through what feels like mountains of e-mail correspondence. An e-mail from Kristin is usually the highlight of this otherwise stressful task. I love receiving a friendly message from her linking to something tasty. It sure beats the other 99% of my e-mails, which are mostly sent from frantic clients and demanding partners. Acknowledging my recent obsession with quinoa, Kristin sent me this seasonal recipe. I was skeptical about using an entire bunch of raw kale as the main flavoring, but it was genius. The lemon and garlic brightened up the earthy kale and the olive oil and walnuts made the dish feel decadent both in taste and texture. This pretty dish was fantastic with grilled steaks but would also make a satisfying vegetarian main course.

Quinoa with Spring Vegetables and Walnut-Kale Pesto
adapted from Gluten-free Girl and the Chef

Serves 4

for the quinoa with spring vegetables:
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon diced shallots
1 1/2 cups (250 g) quinoa
2 teaspoons of salt
3 cups (720 ml) vegetable stock or water
1/2 cup (70 g) peas (defrosted if frozen, blanched if fresh)
1 bunch asparagus, woody bottoms removed and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 large shallots, sliced thin
4 basil leaves, thinly sliced (chiffonade), plus extra leaves for garnish

for the walnut-kale pesto:
1/2 cup (50 g) walnuts, chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 large bunch kale, washed and chopped, stems removed
5 basil leaves, stems removed
1 cup (240 ml) extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
juice of 1/2 lemon
3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese

Set a saucepan over a medium-high heat. Pour in the oil and butter and cook until the butter melts and begins to foam. Add the shallots and cook, stirring frequently, for about 3 minutes, until they’re soft. Add the quinoa to the pan and toast it for about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the salt and stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pan, and cook for about 15 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed. Remove from the heat and allow it to cool. (You can also cook the quinoa the day before and refrigerate it for up to 1 day.)

While the quinoa cooks, set a pot of salted water over high heat (the water should be as salty as the ocean). Have a bowl full of ice cubes waiting in the sink. Bring the salted water to a boil. Add the asparagus pieces. Cook for about 2 minutes, until they begin to rise to the surface. (You want these to still have some crunch.) Using a strainer, remove the asparagus from the boiling water and plunge the strainer into the ice bath. Allow the asparagus pieces to remain on ice for about 1 minute, until they cool. Put into a bowl with the peas and set aside.

To make the pesto, put the walnuts and garlic into a food processor. Pulse them into an almost paste. Add the kale and basil. Pulse until everything starts to get chopped up really fine. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil as the food processor is running. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon juice and Parmesan and pulse the pesto until everything is combined. If the pesto feels thick, you can thin it out with a bit of water.

To finish the dish, set a large saute pan over high heat. Add the canola oil. When the oil runs around the pan easily, add the shallots. Cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes, until they’re soft. Add the basil leaves and cook for 1 minute, until they release their fragrance. Put all the vegetables into the saute pan and toss them around for 3 to 4 minutes, until they’re nice and toasty. Add the cooked quinoa. Toss it around until it is nice and hot, about 3 to 4 more minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Smear some pesto on each plate. Scoop some of the quinoa and vegetables onto the pesto. Garnish with basil leaves, if desired, and serve immediately.

I think most people by now have heard Michael Pollan’s famous advice: “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.” One way of reaching this goal is to adopt the Meatless Monday approach. In a nutshell, it’s an international campaign to try to “reduce meat consumption 15% in order to improve personal health and the health of our planet.” Who can argue with that? I think the problem is that many people think vegetarian food is bland and boring — and let’s face it, some of it is. But if all vegetarian recipes tasted as outstanding as this one, I guarantee you wouldn’t even miss the meat in the dinner just once a week. My mom’s turkey meatball recipe is one of my all-time favorites, but I have to admit that I like this vegetarian version even better. They’re light, tender and have even more flavor than regular meatballs. And because they’re vegetarian, I didn’t feel at all guilty about sneaking a fourth polpette (I figured I’d work on that “not too much” part of the Pollan mantra some other time).

Polpette di Melanzane
adapted from Catherine Fulvio via the Good Food Channel; you can watch Catherine making these here and see just how easy it is

Serves 4 (makes 14 to 16 balls)

The original recipe calls for 2 teaspoons chopped mint and 1 teaspoon oregano, but I used basil and parsley simply because it’s what I had in my fridge. I used a modified version of Marcella Hazan’s tomato sauce here, but feel free to use your own favorite tomato sauce recipe or even a good-quality store-bought one. The polpette can be frozen, so you might even want to make a double batch. I certainly will the next time I cook this.

for the polpette:
2 large eggplants, cut in half
extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups (200 g) breadcrumbs
1 1/4 cups (125 g) freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon chopped basil
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
a pinch of grated nutmeg
1 lb (450 g) spaghetti, to serve

for the tomato sauce:
5 tablespoons (75 g) unsalted butter
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 x 28 oz can (or 2 x 400 g cans) whole plum tomatoes, with their juices
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and cut in half
salt, to taste
6 basil leaves, chopped

To make the tomato sauce, melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the garlic and sauté gently for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes along with their juices and the onion halves. Add a pinch or two of salt. Place over a medium heat and bring to a simmer, mashing up the tomatoes gently with the back of a wooden spoon. Cook, uncovered, at a very slow but steady simmer, adjusting the heat as necessary, for about 45 minutes, or until droplets of fat float free from the tomato and the sauce has reduced and thickened. Stir occasionally, continuing to mash any large pieces of tomato with the wooden spoon. Shortly before serving, stir in the chopped basil. Taste and add salt as needed. Discard the onion.

Meanwhile, to make the polpette, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Rub the halved eggplants with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place them on a baking tray and roast for 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly.

Scoop out the flesh of the eggplants, place in a sieve and press gently to squeeze out the excess liquid. In a mixing bowl, mash the garlic and eggplant together, then stir in the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, egg yolks, basil, parsley and nutmeg. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Shape the eggplant mixture into golf ball-sized ‘meatballs’. Heat some olive oil in a pan and fry the balls in batches until golden, turning from time to time and taking care not to crowd the pan. Place on a paper towel to drain.

When the sauce is done, add the polpette and simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the spaghetti in a large pot of boiling salted water. Drain well and serve with the polpette and tomato sauce.

I’ve always thought of cheese soup as a Midwestern, and particularly a Wisconsin, thing. There’s no reason for me to think that, other than that Wisconsin is known as the Dairy State and leads the nation in cheese production. UW-Madison, where Kelly and I both went to college, is also well known for often topping the polls for the highest student beer consumption (and in fact, the student union in Madison was the first college union in the country to sell beer), so I guess it’s no surprise that beer bread is what I thought of to serve with this soup.

The beer bread is surprisingly light and sweet (a little too sweet for my taste, actually; next time I’m going to try adding some salt to counteract it). It’s also so fast to make that your oven probably won’t even have finished preheating by the time you’ve got it all mixed up and ready to go. You’ll never buy an overpriced beer bread mix again after making this from scratch.

Cauliflower Cheese Soup
adapted from Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch by Nigel Slater

Serves 4 to 6

Instead of serving this soup with a bread on the side, Nigel Slater toasts 2 slices of dark rye bread, melts a little cheese on top, cuts the slices into triangles and floats them on top of the soup.

2 tablespoons (30 g) butter
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 head of cauliflower, broken into florets
3 1/2 cups (840 ml) water
2 bay leaves
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup (200 ml) crème fraîche or sour cream
1 heaped tablespoon grain mustard
1 cup (100 g) coarsely grated Gruyère, Cantal or a strong, mature Cheddar
finely chopped fresh chives, to garnish (optional)

Melt the butter in a large pot. Add the onion and garlic and fry until soft, but don’t let them color. In a separate pot, boil the cauliflower in the water for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender. Add the bay leaves to the onion and garlic, then add the cauliflower and its cooking water. Bring to the boil and add salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes, until the vegetables are very soft. Remove the pan from the heat, discard the bay leaves and allow the soup to cool slightly. Puree the soup in two batches in a blender (or use a hand-held immersion blender right in the pot). Pour the mixture back into the pot and stir in the crème fraîche, grain mustard and grated cheese. Bring the soup slowly back to a simmer and stir just until the cheese has melted, then ladle into individual bowls, garnish with chopped chives, if using, and serve.

***

Irish Beer Bread

Makes 1 loaf

I called this Irish beer bread only because I used an Irish ale (Smithwick’s, which is pronounced Smittick’s), but you can use any beer. The stronger the beer you choose, the stronger the flavor of the bread.

2 1/2 cups (300 g) self-rising flour
1 tablespoon sugar
12 fl oz beer (350 ml), at room temperature
2 tablespoons (30 g) butter, melted (optional)

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Grease a 1-lb loaf tin. Sift the flour and sugar into a bowl. Pour in the beer and mix with a wooden spoon until just combined. Pour into the greased loaf tin, pour the melted butter on top, if using, and bake for 45 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool for at least 30 minutes before you slice it.

My newest working mom trick is double Sunday dinner. I find that if I can make Monday night’s dinner while cleaning up Sunday night’s dinner mess, the week goes much better. I’ve tried a few make-ahead meals with mixed results; curried pork stew is great, butternut squash lasagna, not so much. This vegan stew is one of my favorite make-ahead meals yet. You certainly won’t miss the meat. A word of warning, though: when peeling the butternut squash, throw the peels in your compost or garbage can. Do not attempt to put them down your garbage disposal. Do not attempt to put them down your mother-in-law’s garbage disposal. The cost of the plumber fixing the sink takes away from the enjoyment of the meal. Trust me on this one.

Coconut cream pie has been on my mind for a long time. When I found James Peterson’s version in his new book, Baking, I had no choice but to make it. The book, by the way, is a nice compilation of recipes and techniques ranging from bread to pastries to cakes. I’m not sure it’s the “baking education” promised on its cover, but I’ve been salivating over its pictures and recipes for weeks. Despite my several adaptations (shortcuts, really), my first coconut cream pie turned out much better than any version I’ve had from a bakery. I wish I had tried it sooner.

Quinoa with Moroccan Winter Squash and Carrot Stew
adapted from Bon Appétit, January 2006

Serves 6

for the stew:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 teaspoons Hungarian sweet paprika
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 cup (240 ml) water
1 x 14-oz (400-g) can diced tomatoes, drained
1 butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
5 to 7 carrots, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes

for the quinoa:
1 cup (170 g) quinoa
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 medium carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
2 cups (480 ml) water
1/2 cup (15 g) chopped fresh cilantro, divided

For stew: Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until soft, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for 1 minute. Mix in the paprika and the next 7 ingredients. Add 1 cup (240 ml) water and the tomatoes. Bring to a boil. Add the squash and carrots. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat until the vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.)

For quinoa: Rinse the quinoa and drain. Melt the butter with the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and carrot. Cover and cook until the vegetables begin to brown, stirring often, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, salt, and turmeric and sauté for 1 minute. Add the quinoa and stir 1 minute. Add 2 cups (480 ml) of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cover and simmer until the liquid is absorbed and the quinoa is tender, about 15 minutes.

To serve, rewarm the stew and stir in half of the cilantro. Spoon the quinoa onto a platter, forming a well in the center. Spoon the stew into the well. Sprinkle with the remaining cilantro.

***

Coconut Cream Pie
adapted from Baking by James Peterson

Makes 1 pie

1 x 10-inch pie crust (homemade or Pillsbury refrigerated recommended)
2 cups (480 ml) unsweetened coconut milk (regular or light)
1 cup (240 ml) milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 eggs
2 egg yolks
1/2 cup (100 g) sugar plus 2 tablespoons
1/4 cup (25 g) plus 2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup (40 g) unsweetened dessicated coconut
2 cups (180 g) sweetened shredded coconut, divided
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream

Use a 9– to 10-inch pie pan. Roll the dough into a round about two inches larger than the pie pan. Line the pie pan with the dough, fold under the excess dough and crimp the edges. Prebake the pie shell according to your recipes (or package instructions). I highly recommend lining the crust with aluminum foil and adding an inch or so of pie weights or dried beans during the first half of the baking time. This will keep the crust from shrinking, warping, and performing other unknown pastry tricks. Carefully remove the pie weights/beans and tinfoil during the last half of the baking time to allow the crust to fully cook.

Set the oven to 350°F (180°C). In a medium saucepan, bring the coconut milk and milk to a simmer with the vanilla. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolks, 1/2 cup (100 g) of sugar, and the cornstarch until smooth. Slowly pour half of the milk into the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan with the rest of the milk. Stir the mixture with a whisk over medium heat until it bubbles and thickens. Immediately remove it from the heat, stir until smooth and transfer to a bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow to cool to room temperature.

Fold the dessicated coconut and 1 cup (90 g) of the sweetened shredded coconut into the pudding and spread this mixture in the now cool pie shell. Chill for at least 1 hour.

While the pie chills, toast the remaining 1 cup (90 g) of shredded coconut in a heavy pan over medium heat, stirring occasionally until lightly browned. Pour the toasted coconut into a small bowl to cool.

Before serving, combine the heavy cream with the 2 tablespoons of sugar and beat it to stiff peaks. Spread the whipped cream over the pudding mixture, doming the cream in the center, and sprinkle the toasted coconut over it.

Like many teenage girls, I tried out vegetarianism in high school for about three months. I lost weight, my skin turned an odd(er) shade of white, and all I could think about was turkey croissants and sausage. Although my vegetarian experiment didn’t last long, I still try to eat vegetarian at least once a week. It’s healthy, of course, but also cheap. Tonight’s dinner, made with all organic ingredients, served two adults and one toddler and cost about $6, about the price of a fast-food value meal.

Warm Tofu with Spicy Garlic Sauce
adapted from Gourmet, March 2009

Serves 2 to 3

1 x 15-oz (425-g) package soft tofu (not silken)
1 small clove garlic, chopped
4 scallions, chopped
2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted and crushed with the side of a heavy knife
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon coarse Korean hot red pepper flakes or other ground hot pepper

Carefully rinse the tofu, then cover with cold water in a medium saucepan. Bring the water to a simmer over medium-high heat, then keep warm, covered, over very low heat.

Meanwhile, mince and mash the garlic to a paste with a pinch of salt. Stir together the garlic paste with all remaining ingredients except the tofu and hot pepper flakes.

Just before serving, carefully lift the tofu from the saucepan with a large spatula and drain it on paper towels. Gently pat dry, then cut the tofu into 4 to 5 slices. Spoon some sauce over each tofu piece, sprinkle with pepper flakes to taste, and serve warm. Serve the remaining sauce on the side with rice.

***

Steamed Spinach, Japanese Style

Serves 3

9 oz (250 g) baby spinach
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

Wash the spinach and drain, but do not dry thoroughly. Place the spinach in a large saucepan and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook the spinach over a medium heat until wilted, about 5 minutes. There should be enough water on the spinach to steam it. Toss the cooked spinach with soy sauce and garnish with sesame seeds.

Every year, my New Year’s resolutions are the same — be nicer and be healthier. This quick and easy menu won’t help with the “nicer” goal but sure helps with the “healthier” bit. We especially loved this dinner after a month of calorie-heavy holiday and birthday meals. Reuben’s recent discovery of the quinoa-filled menu at Protein Bar in the Chicago Loop was the inspiration for his chili and quinoa creation. For anyone else looking to lose weight or eat healthier this year, quinoa is a great dinner choice. It’s high protein, high fiber, and satisfying enough that you don’t miss the mashed potatoes or pasta that might otherwise be on your plate.

Even tonight’s dessert isn’t too decadent. Though drenched in caramel, the popcorn is relatively low in fat (only 3 tablespoons of butter!). The kicky cayenne has also been shown to increase metabolism. And, of course, it’s tasty, as in hide-it-or-I’ll-eat-the-whole-batch tasty.

Vegetarian Chili on Quinoa

2 teaspoons olive oil
1 onion, diced
1 teaspoon each of cumin, dried oregano, salt
2 stalks celery, diced
1 bell pepper, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeno, minced (optional)
1 x 4-oz (110-g) can diced green chilies
1 x 14-oz (400-g) can black beans, drained and rinsed
1 x 14-oz (400-g) can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 x 28-oz (2 x 400-g) can crushed tomatoes
1 tablespoon chili powder
1 cup (170 g) quinoa, rinsed and drained
1 1/2 cups (360 ml) water
2 cups (300 g) corn kernels, defrosted if frozen
garnishes: sour cream or plain yogurt, minced jalapeno, minced green onion, shredded cheddar cheese

In a Dutch oven or other large saucepan, heat the olive oil over a medium heat. Add the onion and saute for 2 minutes. Add the spices, salt, celery, bell pepper, garlic, and jalapeno and cook until the garlic becomes fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the green chilies, beans, tomatoes and chili powder and simmer for at least 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan with a lid, combine the quinoa with the water. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce the heat. Simmer for 15 minutes, until the quinoa is tender and the water is absorbed. Fluff the cooked quinoa with a fork and set aside (covered) until the chili is ready.

About 5 minutes before serving, mix the corn into the chili mixture. Continue cooking until the corn is heated through, about 5 minutes.

For each serving, spoon the chili over the cooked quinoa and garnish to taste with sour cream or plain yogurt, minced jalapeno, minced green onion, and cheddar cheese.

***

Spicy Caramel Popcorn
from Smitten Kitchen

Makes 4 quarts

nonstick cooking spray or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup (100 g) popcorn kernels
2 cups (250 g) salted peanuts (optional)
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 cups (600 g) sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon kosher or coarse sea salt

Lightly coat two large, heatproof rubber spatulas, a very large mixing bowl and two large baking sheets with nonstick cooking spray or a thin slick of oil.

In a large saucepan or pot with a lid, heat the oil over a medium-high heat. Add the popcorn kernels, cover and keep the saucepan moving until all of the kernels have popped, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the prepared bowl, removing any unpopped kernels. Toss with salted peanuts, if using.

In a small bowl, whisk together the baking soda and cayenne pepper.

Have the two large baking sheets ready. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, butter, salt and 1/2 cup (120 ml) water. Cook over a high heat, without stirring, until the mixture becomes a light golden-yellow caramel, 10 to 14 minutes. Remove from the heat and carefully whisk in the baking soda mixture (the mixture will bubble up).

Immediately pour the caramel mixture over the popcorn and don’t worry if it doesn’t all come out of the pot, you’ll have plenty. Working quickly and carefully, use the prepared spatulas to toss the caramel and popcorn together, as if you were tossing a salad, until the popcorn is well coated.

Spread the popcorn onto the baking sheets and quickly separate them into small pieces while still warm. Cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes. Once cool, store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.