Whenever people ask where I’m from, I always hesitate before answering. Although I spent my teenage years in Illinois, I lived my younger years in Tomball, Texas, a tiny town near Houston. Inevitably, I answer that I was “raised in Texas.” Growing up in Texas during your formative years definitely leaves a mark. The food, the weather, the people all have the indelible stamp of Texas on them. It took me a long time to get over my move to north. While I can appreciate the faster pace of my current hometown,  I still miss many, many things about Texas. The warm and generous people, amazing sunsets, never buying a winter coat, and jalapenos and sweet tea served with every meal.

I am still, after all these years, a homesick Texan. I regularly follow Lisa Fain’s blog by the same name and was thrilled when Kristin sent me her cookbook. I spent the evening reading it–yes, reading it–with that bittersweet ache of nostalgia in my stomach. There is nothing quite like food to trigger memory. A certain conversation or taste or smell that you’ve forgotten for years can come roaring back to life with just the mention of the food that you were eating when it occurred. When I read Lisa’s green salsa recipe I knew I was going to be in for a long ride down memory lane. This salsa is one that I ate constantly growing up. It was (and probably still is) served alongside traditional red salsa at every Mexican restaurant in southeastern Texas. Alas, I never tasted it again after moving up north. Until now that is. I’ve made this salsa five times since Christmas Eve, where I served it as surprise for my Texas-born siblings. For me, that is an astounding amount of times to make the same recipe. It’s just that good. I can, and have, eaten it by the spoonfuls. It’s topped my carnitas, been served along side yellow rice and a roasted chicken, gone perfectly with tortilla chips, and accompanied tonight’s steak tacos.

Steak & Swiss Chard Tacos

Serves 6

2 steaks (preferably ribeye or flank steak, but sirloin will work in a pinch)
2 cloves garlic, minced
juice of 1 lime
1 teaspoon cumin
salt and pepper
1 bunch Swiss chard, tough stems chopped into 1/2 inch pieces and leaves roughly chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
12 corn or flour tortillas
toppings (shredded cheese, diced tomatoes, sour cream, avocado)

Spread the minced garlic evenly on top of the steaks. Sprinkle with the lime juice, cumin, and salt and pepper, to taste. Let the steaks sit for 20 minutes. If desired, steaks can sit for up to one hour in the fridge. Make the salsa while your steaks marinate.

While the steak marinates, heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the Swiss chard stems and sliced garlic and cook, stirring frequently for 2–3 minutes until the garlic turns golden. Add the Swiss chard leaves and continue cooking until the leaves are wilted and stems are just tender, another 5–10 minutes. Season the chard with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.

Preheat a large cast iron skillet or griddle over medium high heat. When hot, place the steaks into the pan and cook for 5–8 minutes until nicely seared on one side. Flip the steaks and continue cooking on the other side until cooked to your desired doneness. I like my beef medium rare so usually another 5 minutes will do the trick, depending on the thickness of the steak.  When done, remove the steaks from the pan and let them rest on a cutting board. After letting them rest for 5–10 minutes, thinly slice the steaks against the grain. Serve the steak with warmed tortillas, topped with the swiss chard, salsa and other accompaniments.

***

Houston-style Green Salsa
from The Homesick Texan Cookbook by Lisa Fain

Makes about 2 cups

3/4 lb (340 g) small tomatillos, husks removed or 1 x11 oz (x310 g) can of whole tomatillos, drained
1 avocado, peeled and pitted
1 or 2 serrano chiles, stems and seeds removed, roughly chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon lime juice
1/4 cup (8 g) cilantro
salt, to taste

If using fresh tomatillos, on high heat, bring a pot of water to boiling and cook tomatillos until soft, about 5 minutes.

Add the tomatillos to a blender along with the avocado, serrano chiles, garlic, lime juice, and cilantro. Blend until smooth then add salt, to taste.

You think you’re busy now? I sometimes find myself thinking on days when I’m feeling frazzled by the ceaseless demands of two young kids. Wait till they’re old enough to want to be doing things after school and on weekends. I imagine future weekday afternoons and Saturday mornings spent ferrying them around to sports or music or friends’ houses, when no doubt I’ll look back at this time and laugh at how easy I actually had it. We’ve taken our first steps down this road recently after my daughter started swimming lessons in the new year, which means we don’t get home till late on Tuesdays now. Landing in the door with homework still to be done and two tired, hungry kids clamoring to be fed, I’ve been keeping an eye out even more than usual for recipes that I can get on the table quickly on Tuesday nights. So far I’ve made stew the night before that I could just come home and reheat and ditto for a big pot of spaghetti Bolognese, but I’ve also been relying on my slow cooker a lot again.

I’d never heard of barbacoa beef before spying this recipe on The Kitchn, where it was presented as Superbowl party food to feed a crowd. The tangy flavors of the lime and vinegar sounded like just to thing to perk up dulled winter taste buds, not to mention the smoky chipotles. It’s a new favorite in my repertoire of slow cooker recipes and a lifesaver on a busy day.

Slow Cooker Barbacoa Beef
adapted from The Kitchn

Makes enough for 30 tacos

Dinner doesn’t get much easier than when it’s made in a slow cooker, but this makes more than enough for two dinners if you want to have the same thing all over again as leftovers on a second night for an even easier time of it. Otherwise freeze half of it for another time. Instead of using the beef as a taco filling, you could also pile it onto nachos. In Ireland, you can get tinned chipotle chiles from my friend Lily’s online shop. I found this recipe had plenty of flavor as it is, but you could try adding oregano, cumin, ground cloves, smoked paprika or even a teaspoon of espresso powder if you want to spice it up a little more.

4 chipotle peppers (from a can), finely chopped, plus all the adobo sauce they sit in
1 red onion, roughly chopped
1 head of garlic, peeled and cloves smashed
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
5 dry bay leaves
1 tablespoon salt
4 to 6 cups (1 to 1.5 litres) beef or chicken stock
1/2 cup (125 ml) cider vinegar
juice of 4 limes
5 to 7 lb (2.2 to 3.2 kg) beef brisket or stewing beef

to serve:
flour or corn tortillas
cherry tomatoes, quartered, or salsa
1 or 2 red onions, thinly sliced, or a few thinly sliced scallions
chopped fresh cilantro
lime wedges

Place all the ingredients except for the beef directly into your slow cooker and stir them around until they’re fairly well combined. Add in the beef and put on the lid. Cook on low for 6 to 8 hours, until the meat is cooked through and can be shredded easily when pulled with a fork.

When it’s done, remove the meat from the slow cooker and place it on a rimmed baking sheet or in a large bowl, then use two forks to shred the meat. Place the shredded beef in a large serving bowl and pour over a few ladlefuls of the cooking liquid (you want the meat to be moist but not drowning in the liquid). Serve in tortillas topped with quartered cherry tomatoes or salsa, onion slices, fresh cilantro and an extra squeeze of lime juice.

Feeling frazzled from the demands of two young children after a long month, I fired off an email to Kelly on Friday evening asking if I could hop on a plane and join her in Mexico, where she was spending the weekend for work. “I’m sitting on my balcony watching the waves crash on the beach, a little tipsy from my margarita. Wish you were here!” she wrote back. “I’m making a Rick Bayless recipe on Sunday, which is about as close as I’m likely to get to Mexico anytime soon,” I replied. As compromises go, at least it was a tasty one — I just wish I’d had the makings of a Rick Bayless margarita on hand too.

Slow Cooker Smoky Pork Tacos with Avocado and Feta
adapted from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless

Serves 8

Rick Bayless calls this Smoky Pork Tinga Tacos in his book and says you can vary the recipe by replacing the pork with 2 lb (1 kg) of boneless, skinless chicken thighs or cubed boneless beef chuck (stewing beef). I picked up a couple cans of chipotle chilies on my trip back to the US this summer and have been rationing them for the past 5 months, but if you can’t get them, you should still try this recipe, perhaps using 1 or 2 chopped red chilies or using more chorizo, though you won’t get the same smoky taste. You can also buy dried, crushed chipotles from Seasoned Pioneers in the UK. Or if you don’t like spicy food, you can just leave out chilies altogether.

4 medium (1 lb/450 g) boiling potatoes or Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 onion, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 lb (1 kg) boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 x 28 oz (or 2 x 400 g) cans of chopped tomatoes (preferably fire-roasted if you can get them)
3 or 4 canned chipotle chiles en adobo, seeded and sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 tablespoon chipotle canning sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon dried oregano
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
4 oz (100 g) chorizo, cut into small pieces (optional)
flour or corn toritllas, to serve
feta cheese, crumbled, to serve
2 large avocados, pitted and cubed, to serve
sour cream or natural yogurt, to serve
fresh cilantro, chopped, to serve

Spread the potatoes over the bottom of a slow cooker* and top with the sliced onions, then the pork. In a large bowl, mix the undrained tomatoes with the chillies, chipotle canning sauce, Worcestershire, oregano, garlic and salt. Pour the mixture evenly over the pork, onions and potatoes (don’t stir — keep everything in layers). Cover and cook on high for 6 hours or low for 8 hours.

When you’re ready to eat, fry the optional chorizo in a skillet over a medium heat for about 5 minutes. Uncover the pork tinga and spoon off any fat that might have accumulated on top. Add in the chorizo, then stir everything together, breaking the pork into small pieces that are suitable for tacos. Serve with warm corn tortillas, feta cheese, avocados, sour cream or yogurt and a sprinkling of fresh chopped cilantro to make soft tacos.

*Note: If you don’t have a slow cooker, lay the pork in a medium-large heavy pot, preferably a Dutch oven, and top with the potatoes and onions. Pour over the tomato mixture, cover with a lid and braise in a 300°F (150°C) oven for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, until the pork is completely tender.

As much as I hate to see it go, summer is on its way out. Our bathing suits and beach towels are washed and stored. Jackets and jeans have come out of hiding. Apples are reappearing in our CSA box. And sadly, we harvested the last of our backyard tomatoes. I love tomatoes. I love them enough to avoid eating them out of season when they are pithy, tasteless and generally useless. So to honor the last of our tomatoes, I paired them with our backyard’s real bounty — serrano chilies. The tomatoes and chilies in the pico de gallo provide a nice acidity and heat for the savory grilled chicken thighs. It even livened up the plain white rice I served with it.

Another note on peppers — we grew a bumper crop of hot (really hot) ones this year thanks to a new sunny garden bed and good weather. We obviously couldn’t eat a basket of hot peppers each week, so I made up a huge jar of homemade pickled serranos and jalapenos. If anyone else is looking for a way to preserve their own peppers, check out this fabulous recipe from David Lebovitz for pickled jalapenos. Delicious, easy, and perfect for topping nachos.

Chipotle Lime Grilled Chicken Thighs
adapted from Gourmet, June 2006

Serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
2 canned chipotles in adobo, minced
1 teaspoon salt
6 to 8 large skinless boneless chicken thighs
1 tablespoon honey

Prepare your grill for cooking over direct heat with medium-hot charcoal (moderate heat for gas).

While the coals are lighting, stir together the lime juice, oil, minced chipotle, and salt in a liquid-measuring cup. Put the chicken in a large sealable bag and add 1/3 cup (80 ml) marinade (reserve the remainder in a cup). Seal the bag, forcing out excess air, and marinate the chicken at room temperature for about 15 minutes. Stir the honey into the remaining marinade until dissolved to make a sauce.

Grill the chicken (discarding the marinade in the bag) on a lightly oiled grill rack, covered only if using a gas grill, turning the chicken over occasionally and moving it to avoid flare-ups if necessary, until just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes total.

Brush both sides of the chicken with some of the reserved sauce, then continue to grill, turning over once, until lightly browned, about 1 minute more. Serve the chicken drizzled with remaining sauce and topped with pico de gallo, if desired.

***

Pico de Gallo

Makes about 2 cups (480 ml)

1/2 onion (white or red), minced
2 large, ripe tomatoes, diced small
1 jalapeno or serrano chili, minced (remove seeds before mincing to lessen heat)
juice of 1/2 lime
handful of chopped cilantro
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper

Place the onion in a colander and rinse under cold water, then drain. Gently mix together all of the ingredients, including the onion, in a medium bowl. Taste and add more lime juice, salt and/or pepper, if necessary. Serve with tortilla chips or as a topping to meat, fish, or poultry.

When I was back home in the US in July, my friend Leah and I took a day trip to the wineries of southwestern Michigan, but before we made our way to a few of them, we stopped for lunch first. We had planned to have a posh lunch at the Tabor Hill Winery but it turned out they were closed on the day we went, so we backtracked to the lakeside resort town of New Buffalo, complete with waterfront condos and shops selling taffy, tacky souvenirs and cheap T-shirts. The restaurant we wound up at was The Stray Dog, where we sat on the screened-in porch overlooking the boats in the marina across the street, eating fish tacos and fries and drinking iced tea — a perfect Plan B, actually.

To make fish tacos at home, I feel no shame in using lowbrow frozen fish sticks. I figure that if foodie heavyweights Jamie Oliver and Nigel Slater can get away with publishing recipes that use them (they both make sandwiches with them), then I’m in good company. I’ve always considered them to be my guiltiest foodie secret, buried deep in the freezer where no one can see them, reserved for the nights when I’m just too frazzled to face cooking dinner. But I’m coming clean now and adopting Jamie Oliver’s approach: “Be proud to eat fish fingers, that’s what I say.”

Fish Tacos with Mango Radish Salsa
adapted quite a lot from Tyler Florence

Serves 4

I’m sure Tyler Florence’s original recipe for homemade goujons using mahi mahi and panko is a real treat, but here is my unapologetically bastardized — and faster and easier — version. He also calls for a pink chile mayo made with canned chipotles in adobo sauce, and even though I brought back a couple cans from my trip, I was feeling too stingy to use them for this and improvised with this lime mayo instead.

for the fish tacos:
24 fish sticks (a.k.a. fish fingers in Ireland/the UK)
1/2 head Savoy cabbage, finely shredded
1/2 bunch cilantro, leaves only, roughly chopped
6 spring onions or 1 bunch chives, chopped
lime wedges, to serves
corn or flour tortillas, to serve

for the lime mayo:
1/2 cup (120 ml) mayonnaise or sour cream
zest and juice of 1 lime
salt and freshly ground black pepper

for the mango radish salsa:
4 to 6 red radishes, diced
2 mangoes, peeled and diced
1 red chili, finely diced (optional)
1/2 red onion, diced
juice of 1/2 lime
1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, leaves only, roughly chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Cook the fish sticks (fingers) according to the instructions on the package. Keep warm until ready to serve.

To make the lime mayo, whisk together the mayo, lime zest and juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to use.

To make the mango radish salsa, combine the mango, radishes, chili and red onion in a bowl. Pour over the lime juice and stir well, then scatter over the chopped cilantro and season to taste. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Serve the tacos buffet style: pile up the fish sticks on a plate, put the lime mayo in a bowl and the mango radish salsa in another. Set a pile of shredded cabbage, cilantro leaves, chopped spring onions/chives and lime wedges next to the fish. Warm the tortillas in the oven for a minute or two (or zap them in a microwave) and serve, letting everyone help themselves.

***

Sweet Potato Wedges
adapted from Every Day by Bill Granger

Serves 4

2 lb (900 g) sweet potatoes, skin left on and cut into wedges
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
lime wedges, to serve

Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).

Toss the sweet potato batons with the olive oil, paprika, cayenne and salt and pepper. Scatter them in a single layer on a large baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the wedges are golden brown. Serve with lime wedges.

I love having visitors, not least because I get to pull out all the stops and feed them well. We had some vegetarian friends over from the US for a long weekend visit last week, so I turned to some of my tried-and-true favorites: polpette di melanzane, ratatouille, lemon and pea risotto, and Moorish crunch salad with naan bread, plus roasted peaches with amaretti and Eton mess for dessert. My friend (the same friend who cracked his fridge shelf last year with a heavy pot of soup) was lamenting the fact that they’re tired of making the same old things from their small cookbook collection, so Adrian, here’s another fast and easy vegetarian recipe for you to add to your repertoire.

Chili Bean Burritos with Corn Salsa
adapted from Every Day by Bill Granger

Serves 4

When serving this to my small children, I give them a tortilla on the side (because they still like to have what the grown-ups are having) and just put the bean mixture in a bowl with some corn salsa on top, which they can easily spoon up.

for the chili bean burritos:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 red pepper, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 red chili, deseeded and finely chopped
pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 x 14 oz (400 g) cans of kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 x 14 oz (400 g) can of chopped tomatoes
zest and juice of 1 lime
a small handful of fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
freshly grated cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese, to serve
tortillas, to serve
natural yogurt or sour cream, to serve

for the corn salsa:
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 cups (300 g) corn, either fresh or frozen
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 red chili, deseeded and finely chopped (optional)
a small handful of fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
zest and juice of 1 lime
salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make the bean burritos, heat the oil in a large, heavy-based pan over a medium-low heat. Add the celery, onion and red pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, for 7 to 10 minutes, until the vegetables have softened. Add the garlic, chili and spices and cook for 1 minute more. Add the kidney beans and tomatoes and stir well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to very low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes, until thickened. Stir in the lime zest and juice and the cilantro.

While the bean mixture is cooking, make the salsa. In a separate large pan, heat the oil over a high heat. Add the corn and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes. Tip the corn into a large bowl and stir through the celery, onion, chili, coriander, lime zest and juice. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Set aside.

To serve, spoon some bean mixture down the middle of each tortilla, sprinkle with the grated cheese and wrap up firmly. Serve with the corn salsa and a spoonful of yogurt.

Contrary to popular (American) belief, the condiment of choice in much of Mexico isn’t salsa, but jalapenos en escabeche, which is essentially jalapenos pickled with carrots and onions. Though hesitant to abandon salsa altogether during my summer in Mexico, I grew to love the slightly tart and totally tangy bowl of escabeche vegetables served alongside every meal. A splash of the vinegar-based sauce livens up just about any cut of meat and can be used much like the sport peppers in vinegar you find on tables throughout the southern United States. The crunchy vegetables also make a great addition to dishes in need of a little texture or heat. Tonight’s Rick Bayless chicken dish draws on this classic Mexican combination, with good results. I paired the dish with white rice for a delicious dinner in less than an hour.

Chicken in Tangy Escabeche of Caramelized Onions, Carrots and Jalapenos
adapted from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless

Serves 4 to 6

1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican
1 teaspoon salt
2 lb (900 g) chicken breast halves, bones and skin intact
2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
1 large white onion, cut into 1/4-inch slices
2 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick on a diagonal
4 garlic cloves, peeled and halved
1/4 cup (60 ml)  vinegar (apple cider vinegar is traditional)
2 to 4 canned pickled jalapenos, stemmed, seeded and thinly sliced [Note: I used pre-sliced pickled jalapenos]
1 cup (240 ml) chicken broth

In a small bowl, combine the black pepper, allspice, oregano and salt. Sprinkle half of this mixture over the chicken breasts.

Heat the oil in a very large (12-inch) skillet over medium heat. Lay in the chicken, skin side down, and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on each side, turning once, until richly browned. Remove the chicken to a plate, leaving behind as much oil as possible.

Add the sliced onion and carrots to the skillet and cook, stirring regularly, until the onion is browned, abut 7 minutes. Add the garlic and stir for about 1 minute, then add the remaining seasoning mixture, the vinegar, jalapenos and broth.

Nestle the chicken pieces skin side up in the onion mixture, cover the skillet (a cookie sheet works if your skillet doesn’t have a lid) and simmer gently over a medium-low heat until the chicken is just cooked through, about 15 minutes. Taste the broth and season with additional salt if you think it’s needed. Transfer a piece of chicken to each dinner plate, spooning a generous portion of the juicy vegetable mixture over the top.

It’s not for nothing that rice and beans is such a staple dish in so many parts of the world (Kelly has already written about this here). Not only is it the ultimate budget food, but when eaten together, rice and beans form a complete protein (you could argue that the inclusion of chicken in this dish is a bit of protein overkill). It’s also wide open to interpretation — just have a look at all the variations listed in this article (or see this lentil-rice salad with chorizo). Another option would be to make this smoked paprika roasted chicken from Simply Recipes for dinner one night, then use the leftover shredded chicken in this dish the next day.

Far from being a bland, stodgy bowl of starch, this recipe is full of flavor, not least because of the whopping 2 1/2 tablespoons of ancho chile powder or smoked paprika called for. I was afraid it would be too spicy or overpowering for my small children, but they loved it. We had big bowls of it on its own as a cheap and cheerful midweek meal, but a simple salad of chopped romaine with this tangy avocado dressing or some cheese quesadillas served alongside would round things out nicely.

Red Chile Chicken and Rice with Black Beans
adapted from Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless

Serves 4

For a vegetarian version, simply omit the chicken and only use 1 1/2 tablespoons of ancho chile powder or smoked paprika; I think next time I’ll substitute some feta cheese for the chicken. Rick Bayless says he also sometimes adds a big handful of spinach along with the green onions or herbs.

2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
4 skinless chicken breasts
2 1/2 tablespoons ground ancho chile powder or smoked paprika (use less if omitting the chicken; see above)
1 medium white onion, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 cup (180 g) rice
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 1/2 cups (360 ml) chicken (or vegetable) stock
1 teaspoon salt
1 x 14-oz (400-g) can black beans, drained and rinsed (rinsing will keep them from making the rice sticky)
a few chopped green onions or a handful of chopped cilantro
1/2 to 1 cup (120 to 240 ml) salsa, to serve (optional)

Heat the oil in a medium-large heavy pot over a medium-high heat. Sprinkle both sides of the chicken breasts first with salt, then with 1 tablespoon (yes, tablespoon!) of the ground ancho chile powder or smoked paprika. Place them in the hot oil in a single layer (do this in two batches if need be so you don’t crowd the chicken in the pot). Brown for 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove to a plate to cool, leaving behind as much oil as possible.

Add the onion and rice to the pot. Stir for a few minutes, until the rice turns opaque. Add the garlic and the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons (again, that’s not a typo) ancho chile powder or smoked paprika and cook for 1 minute. Add the stock and salt (use less salt if your stock is already quite salty). Stir well. When the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low and cover the pot. Cook for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut the chicken breasts into 1-inch cubes. Uncover the pot and add the chicken and black beans. Re-cover and cook for 12 minutes longer. (Note: I found that my rice didn’t need this much time to cook, so just keep a close eye on it, test it and use your judgment.)

Uncover, sprinkle on the green onions or cilantro and test a grain of rice: it should have no more than a hint of chalkiness in the center; if it’s still too firm, cook for another 5 minutes or so. Otherwise, simply re-cover the pot, remove it from the heat and let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes to finish cooking the rice in its own trapped steam. Fluff the rice mixture with a fork and serve with the salsa on the side.

“I have a great idea, Mom.”

“What’s that, Sam?”

“I know, let’s make chocolate muffins. With whipped cream. And sprinkles.”

Some days, folks, that all the encouragement I need to grab the sugar from the cupboard and butter from the fridge. It didn’t hurt that our main course required little more than a few minutes of prep and the able assistance of my (er, Reuben’s) new slow cooker.

Green Chile Pork Tacos

Serves 6

3 lb (1.4 kg) pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 cup (240 ml) chicken stock
1 x 4-oz (110-g) can diced green chilies
1 x 10-oz (280-g) can Rotel tomatoes (or other diced tomatoes with green chilies)
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
corn or flour tortillas
toppings: avocado, salsa, cheese, green onion, cilantro, pickled jalapenos, lime wedges

In a large frying pan, brown the pork cubes in the oil until they just begin to brown. Drain the meat and place into a slow cooker. Add the remaining ingredients through salt and pepper and cook on low until the pork is tender, about 8 hours. Gently shred the pork with a fork.

Warm the tortillas and serve the pork, taco-style, with desired toppings.

***

Devil’s Food Cupcakes
adapted from Alpineberry

Makes 1 dozen

1 1/2 cups (180 g) all-purpose flour
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
1/4 cup (30 g) unsweetened natural cocoa powder (don’t use Dutch-processed cocoa)
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (240 ml) water
1/3 cup (80 ml) unflavored oil (canola, grapeseed, etc.)
1 tablespoon white or apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line the wells of a standard muffin pan with paper liners.

Sift the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda and salt into a large mixing bowl. In another bowl, mix together the water, oil, vinegar and vanilla. Add the wet to the dry ingredients and mix until just combined and the batter is smooth. Be careful not to overmix.

Divide the cupcake batter evenly among the wells of your muffin pan. Bake for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until the cupcakes feel springy when gently pressed. Cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then gently remove the cupcakes from the pan and allow to cool fully on a wire rack.

Vanilla Buttercream Frosting
adapted from Magnolia Bakery

Makes enough for one 2-layer 9-inch cake or 2 dozen cupcakes [Note: I halved recipe for 1 dozen cupcakes]

1 cup (225 g) unsalted butter, softened
6 to 8 cups (720 g to 960 g) confectioners’ sugar (a.k.a. icing sugar)
1/2 cup (120 ml) milk
2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Place the butter in a large mixing bowl. Add 4 cups (480 g) of the sugar and then the milk and vanilla. On the medium speed of an electric mixer, beat until smooth and creamy, about 3 to 5 minutes. Gradually add the remaining sugar, 1 cup (120 g) at a time, beating well after each addition (about 2 minutes), until the icing is thick enough to be of good spreading consistency. You may not need to add all of the sugar. If desired, add a few drops of food coloring and mix thoroughly. Use and store the icing at room temperature because icing will set if chilled. Icing can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

This was originally going to be tilapia, Veracruz style but Reuben was too enamored with the halibut to pass it up. I especially liked this preparation not only for the taste but also because the sauce can be made the night before. As you can see from my photo (thank you Reuben for my early birthday present), it’s even pretty enough for guests.

I try to serve seafood at least once a week, not only because it’s healthy, but also because it is quick. U.S. tilapia and wild Alaskan salmon are my fish of choice — the tilapia for its price and the wild salmon for its omega-3. Both fish are also sustainable. I recommend Monterey Bay’s Seafood Watch Program to check whether your seafood choices have low toxin levels and minimal environmental impact.

Halibut, Veracruz Style
adapted from Bon Appétit, May 2003

Serves 6

1 x 28-oz (780-g) can diced tomatoes in juice, well drained, juices reserved
1/4 cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 onion, finely chopped
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 small bay leaves
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
1/3 cup (50 g) chopped pitted green olives
2 tablespoons raisins
2 tablespoons drained capers
6 halibut, tilapia or red snapper fillets (about 1 1/2 lbs/680 g total)
pickled jalapeño chilies, sliced

Place the drained tomatoes in a medium bowl. Using a potato masher, crush the tomatoes to a coarse puree. Drain again, reserving juices.

Heat the oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and stir 30 seconds. Add the garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add the tomato puree and cook 1 minute. Add the bay leaves, parsley, oregano, and 1/4 cup (60 ml) reserved tomato juices. Simmer until the sauce thickens, about 3 minutes. Add the olives, raisins, capers, and all the remaining reserved tomato juices. Simmer until the sauce thickens again, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Spread 3 tablespoons of sauce in the bottom of a 13 x 9-inch glass baking dish. Arrange the fish on top of the sauce. Sprinkle the fish lightly with salt and pepper. Spoon the remaining sauce over the fish. Bake uncovered until the fish is just opaque in center, about 15 to 20 minutes. Using a long spatula, transfer the fish with sauce to plates. Garnish with the pickled jalapeño slices. Serve with rice.

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Orange-Lime Cumin Vinaigrette
adapted from Manger La Ville!

Makes about 1/2 cup (120 ml)

1 small clove garlic
kosher salt
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
3 tablespoons fresh orange juice
2 teaspoons minced shallot
1/2  teaspoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon honey
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
freshly ground pepper

Mince and mash clove of garlic with about 1/2 teaspoon salt. In a medium bowl whisk the garlic paste, lime, orange juice, shallot, cumin and honey. Slowly add the oil while whisking to emulsify the mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste.